A walk through the Nire Valley will reveal the glory of the Waterford Uplands, writes JOHN G O'DWYER
DESPITE THE environmental mischief created by a decade of unprecedented economic growth, it is still possible to uncover places where the Celtic Tiger failed to leave a calling card. Waterford’s Nire Valley is one example, for this elevated landscape remains rural and appealing, but not in the mass-tourism way of pretty footbridges, quaint tea shops, kissing gates and map-boarded viewing points.
Immutable through countless generations, the Nire is instead a jumbled patchwork of sheep pens, small fields, stone walls and improvised fencing – in fact, all the real-life monuments from times when subsistence incomes were hard won from unforgiving mountains.
Even today little concession has been made to modernity, and although visitors are welcomed wholeheartedly, it is into a go-as-you-find-it landscape that could double as a movie set depicting the unrelenting toil of 19th-century upland living.
To begin your exploration of these memorable moorlands, park in the Nire Valley Car Park (see panel). Now follow the arrows for the Nire Lakes along a driveway where a sign banning dogs is a reminder that the local economy is heavily dependent on sheep farming.
What most walkers don’t realise, however, is that these animals also steward the uplands, maintaining biodiversity by controlling the spread of bracken and heather. Declining flock numbers, because of the unprofitability of lamb production, should therefore be a concern for hillwalkers.
This decline not only endangers the viability of upland communities but also, by removing the benefit of close-grazing sheep, threatens to transform mountain walking from pleasure to heathery torment.
Next go through a gateway and continue a short distance before swinging left by the rear of a farmhouse to reach another gateway leading to open mountain.
A steep descent to the right now leads to a stream in a deep gorge. Cross with care, particularly when water levels are high, before continuing roughly south, towards a broad spur marking the western extent of the Nire Coums.
Every mountain range holds a bank of secrets, and the Waterford Uplands are no exception. The spur offers a gentle ascent and brings you to a lonesome plateau where the true glory of the area is revealed. For now it is clear that the Comeragh Mountains resemble a huge flattened trifle with a series of lake-strewn coums scooped from the massive flanks.
Easy walking and spectacular views now follow on a track above Coumfea and Coumalocha. When the cliff-top route eventually swings east it is worth diverting the short distance directly south, to the rim above Coumtay, for a breathtaking vista over Co Waterford and the south coast.
Returning to Coumalocha, you continue contouring the cliff top before heading directly north until you encounter steep ground above the Sgilloge Loughs. Contour right here until you arrive at a stream that topples spectacularly over the cliff top.
When the wind blows directly into this coum it carries spray backwards from this waterfall to form an unmistakable smoke-like plume, which freezes into wonderfully shaped icicles in winter and causes locals to comment that “the old woman is smoking her pipe again”.
Next head northeast, where a short uphill slog will bring you to the head of Coumlara, a slender coum that, unusually for this area, lacks a lake.
Cross the stream at the head of Coumlara and continue until you reach a sturdy fence. Follow this fence left as it descends northwest to reach a steep bouldery rib.
Adrenalin junkies will enjoy the challenge of descending this, but most walkers will be glad to easily bypass this obstacle on the left.
Now return to the fence and descend steeply into the Comeragh Gap. Here a line of white poles, marking an ancient trade-way into the Nire, doubles as a handrail for walkers. Follow this route left as it leads you downhill and then uphill again to reach a gate. From here it’s a short but rugged descent back to Nire Valley Car Park.
Nire Valley, Co Waterford
Starting pointNire Valley Car Park, Co Waterford.
How to get thereFrom Clonmel, in Co Tipperary, take the R671 Dungarvan road to the Co Waterford village of Ballymacarberry. Turn left at Melody's pub and continue until you reach a thatched house at a junction by a scenic bridge. From here a narrow road leads right for about four kilometres to the car park.
DistanceAlmost 14km.
TimeAbout five hours.
SuitabilityChallenging outing suitable for fit, well-equipped walkers. In mist, precise navigation skills are required on the featureless Comeragh plateau.
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 75.
Where to stay and eatHanora's Cottage (052- 6136134, hanorascottage. com), in the Nire Valley, offers high-quality accommodation and food. Light snacks are provided by Melody's Nire View Bar, in Ballymacarberry (052-6136169).
** Our Trooperstown loop walk, on August 8th, gave the starting point as Trooperstown Wood car park, on the N11 past Roundwood on the approach to the Co Wicklow village of Annamoe. In fact the car park is off the road past Annamoe. We regret any inconvenience caused