Arabian days

If there was one word that could sum up the majority of the world’s ills today, it would surely be greed. Welcome to Tunisia, then. First out of the bloc in the Arab Spring, and a country that kicked its greedy, embezzling dictator all the way into the sands of Saudi Arabia. Where, no doubt, he landed extremely comfortably.

Unfortunately, that was not the end of the mess he left behind and, with soldiers, tanks and razor wire still visible in the capital Tunis, a new Islamic government and a bank called ‘Amen’, this is a country you feel is existing on a wing and a prayer.

However since its inspiring and largely peaceful ‘Jasmine revolution’ in January 2011, it seems as if the whole world has been wishing Tunisia well as it tries to get back on track. Especially with tourism – its most important earner. Some good news then. This year the north African country enjoyed a resurgence in tourists – thanks partly to the trouble in nearby Egypt. But while the French are down by almost half, British, Russians and even Libyans have replaced them in record numbers, bringing the total almost back to what it was before the popular uprising (4.2 million in the period January to August last year).

But even if visitor numbers rise to the roughly seven million a year it enjoyed before the revolution, Tunisia is still a thrilling, hugely underrated destination. Especially away from its long, balmy, sand-fringed Mediterranean coast, where few ever venture.

It is impossible to even begin talking about Tunisia though, without mentioning that it could well be the cheapest country to visit in the world. I’ve had delicious meals here for less than €3. I’ve had a hamam – that wonderful exfoliating skin-scrub that slews the grime off you until you’re pink – for only €5, including a proper massage.

I even found a terrifically well located hotel in downtown Tunis for only €7 a night, spitting distance from Tunis’s most fashionable street, Avenue Bourguiba. Though after a quick look inside, it seemed spitting from it might be all it was good for.

But there is also a wonderful high-end here for anyone seeking stylish, atmospheric, and better value alternatives to Morocco’s riads. It is possible to find comfort and exotic opulence in one of Tunisia’s riad-equivalents, known as a Dar, for not much more than a night in a Travelodge at home (especially out-of-season).

And if money isn’t an issue, try Tunis’s poshest Dar in Sidi Bou Said, where the stunning sea views, and the wealth, reminded me most of Cape Town.

But apart from the shockingly good value, and the chance to lie on a beach somewhere hot, why else would anyone come to Tunisia? Well, for a start, that’s what everyone thinks. So if you do venture away from the beaches, you’ll wonder where the other 6,999,999 tourists are.

And while Tunisia may seem petite compared to its vast, mysterious neighbours, Libya and Algeria. It’s hard to imagine any other country that packs in so much natural beauty into such a small area, from the surprisingly green, boar-rich, forests in the north, to the spectacular rolling dunes of the Sahara in the south.

Don't take my word for it: films such as Star Wars, The English Patient and Gladiator all used Tunisia as a backdrop. The latter used the awe-inspiring, marvellously preserved Roman colosseum in El Jem – alone worth the journey to Tunisia.

So Tunisia has plenty of exotic allure, especially for the more independent-minded traveller. Which is why after my brief government-sponsored tour, I decided to explore the country on my own, beginning first with the capital city, Tunis.

Tunis seems at first like a mini-Paris: full of leafy boulevards, packed cafes, smoky bars, clanging trams and even Christian churches – where you can hear choirs in full harmony as you go past; the perfect place to sit dreamily and people-watch. The food is unexpectedly good, if rich, and so is the wine, Tunisia being one of the oldest wine-growing regions of the world.

But while it is tempting to say (because it seems true) that Tunisia is much less pushy, more laid back and racially tolerant than its north African counterparts, and perhaps even safer for women; it is too early for this observer to tell.

Neither should you engage with anyone who approaches you in the street (a good rule anywhere), no matter how sincere the patter sounds (“I saw you earlier at the hotel” etc). And be warned, Tunisian waiters prefer to tip themselves, so get used to being regularly short-changed or having the occasional set-to in French.

But all this is minor turbulence, easily shaken off with a "Monsieur, je connais bien Tunis" (rough translation: Listen pal, I know the scams, so sugar off!) or just a little reminder to yourself of the tough plight post-revolutionary Tunisia is still in.

Then, just as I was thinking it couldn’t get better here in the capital, I fell into a “leftist” bar, teeming with socialists, communists, anarchists and Trotskyists. Needless to say, many of the beers were on me, but, at only €1.50 a bottle, it was a small price to pay to hang out with real revolutionaries and show my support for their struggle. Anyway, that’s socialism for you.

Tunisians are certainly fond of a drink though. And when you hear the fierce jabber and chatter coming from a Tunis bar even on a Monday morning, you realise this is one city that might be better twinned with Dublin, than Paris.

The real, intoxicating draw of this city though lies in its oldest section, the thriving Medina, dating as far back as 698 AD, and refashioned between the 12th to the 16th century when Tunis was considered one of the greatest cities in the Islamic world. A huge warren of covered alleyways, souks, old palaces and Islamic schools right in the heart of the city, it has so far escaped all major natural disasters or radical urban interventions.

It is the best conserved such area in the Arab world today, and a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1979. And there’s hardly another tourist here.

A living museum with 100,000 people, 700 historical monuments and enough secrets behinds its bright doors to keep you enraptured for your entire stay. You can get quality accommodation in the “aristocratic quarter” of Medina for only €30, as I have, and find yourself blessedly exploring the warm, jasmine-scented avenues at night. Or is that simply the sweet scent of revolution lingering?

How to . . . Tunisia

GET THERE
Tunisair operates five flights per week from London Heathrow to Tunis, prices start from £178, including taxes. For reservations call 0044-020-7734-7644 or see tunisair.com.

Also look out for direct charter flights from Belfast to Endfidha with Thomas Cook.

WHERE TO STAY
Budget (with style): For accommodation in the aristocratic quarter of the magical Medina from €30 a night, bed and breakfast, see Beit Dhiafa on Facebook.
Tel: 00-216-98-222972 or 00-216-24-222972; email: beitdhiafa@yahoo.fr

Mid-range: Rooms at the five-star Regency Hotel in Gammarth start from €100 per night, based on two people sharing a double room on a bed and breakfast basis. For more information or to book, see regencytunis.com.

Splurge: Dar Said. darsaid.com.tn. From €190 a night, bed and breakfast. For Cape Town-like views and truly opulent style.

MUST SEE
The Bardo Museum Take a stunning glimpse into the past here with the world's best collection of preserved Roman mosaics housed in a glorious palace.

For information on what’s happening in Tunisia, see cometotunisia.co.uk.