Wheel way to explore Kerry

Irish hotels are wising up to the popularity of cycling, and offering packages. PAUL CULLEN tried one in Kerry

Irish hotels are wising up to the popularity of cycling, and offering packages. PAUL CULLENtried one in Kerry

ALL HOLIDAYS have their ups and downs, and none more so than cycling trips. One minute, you’re flying down a hill in bright sunshine, the next you’re trudging upwards in endless rain.

One day, the wind is pushing you along a stretch of smooth Tarmac, the next you’re clenching your teeth in the face of a force 10 gale. All of which fairly accurately describes the experience of travelling on two wheels in Co Kerry, where breathtaking scenery, bumpy roads and unpredictable weather are guaranteed elements of any holiday.

That was certainly my experience on a recent trip to the county, at a time when the fine weather of early summer was giving way to those gloomy weather fronts that have spoiled many a recent summer.

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In case you hadn’t noticed, biking is big business these days, and the tourism industry has started to take note. Long-distance cycling events and triathlons regularly attract thousands of competitors. The cycle-to-work scheme has seen thousands of fair-weather cyclists splash out on top-of-the-range models that are now begging for a good workout.

Tourism has started to take note, and some in that industry are claiming cycling is “the new golf”. Whether this is the case or not, even top-flight hotels are throwing open their doors to the kind of two-wheeled travellers you would formerly only have found in hostels and BBs.

All of this prompted me to travel to Co Kerry and test the new glasnost towards cycling in Kenmare’s venerable Park Hotel, where proprietors John and Francis Brennan are developing a niche they hope will complement their existing spa facilities.

While some hotels have always had a selection of trusty warhorses available for guests to rent, the Brennans reckon their clientele are more interested in bringing their own high-spec bicycles down to Kenmare. There is, however, a bike shop down the street, in the town centre, where bicycles can be rented.

I brought my road-bike down from Dublin on the back of the car and was relieved to see the hotel has secure garage in which to lock it up. Kenmare sits at the centre of a web of intriguing cycling possibilities, from the Ring of Kerry to the Beara peninsula, as well as the mountains further inland.

The hotel has compiled a list of 18 routes for its guests to ride, ranging in distance from 20km to the 177km tour of the Ring of Kerry.

The common denominator for nearly all routes is that they lead up at some point, so a good and recently serviced bike makes the going a lot easier.

One of the best things about cycling holidays is that you can eat all you want, or at least you feel justified in doing so. So it was only after a hearty breakfast of Sneem black pudding and sausages that I finally got on the bike and started pedalling.

Almost on a whim, I headed southwest, down the Beara peninsula, in warm sunshine. Cool wooded sections of the road alternated with eye-watering views of Carauntoohil and the mountains of the Iveragh peninsula. The roads were deserted and the wind was fair up to Kilmakilloge, where I stopped for refreshments in O’Sullivan’s pub on the pier.

From there it was all uphill to the Healy Pass, a road I hadn’t climbed for over 20 years. Stunning views of Glanmore lake below and the mountains and islands of north Kerry opened up with every twist of the road and I realised that cycling, when things are going well, can be heavenly.

A long descent to Adrigole was followed by a duller haul on the main road to Glengariff where it was time to stop for a refreshments at one of the roadside pubs. A prawn wrap provided sufficient nourishment to sustain me up to the top of the Caha Pass, down through the Turner rock tunnels and back to Kenmare.

So much for the good times; the next day offered dark and threatening skies as I teamed up with Ger, the “bike buddy” offered by the Park to guests who would like guidance, or just company, for their cycle rides. Ger makes hurleys for a living – and was sitting on a seriously fancy bike – but the hotel says it can provide buddies to suit all levels of ability.

As we headed back up the road to Glengarriff, the rain started and it was to increase in intensity right through the day. While I sweated up the pass, I froze on the way down the other side and never really warmed up for the rest of the ride.

Ger, a true tough-nut, was imperturbable while I spent the day regretting my failure to bring a proper raincoat and dreaming of the lovely log fire in the lobby of the hotel.

Ballyvourney and Ballylickey whizzed by in a fuzz as did Ireland’s highest pub, at a place called Top of Coom. We did stop for a coffee at Gougane Barra, where the lake was solemn and majestic in the damp atmosphere. To my disappointment, Jackie Healy Rae’s pub in Kilgarvan was closed as we raced back down to Kenmare after clocking up over 100km.

It was only at this point that I wonder about the mix of cycling and classy hotels. As I squelched across the carpet of the Park hotel in my sodden shoes and dripping Lycra, I imagined the elderly American tourists who were then arriving gazing at me in horror.

Squelch, squelch, I shuffled down the corridor to the privacy of my room, only for the phone to ring with an invitation to try out the hotel’s Samas spa.

I’m not a big fan of spas and massage but I can record that a 30-minute rubdown did me the world of good on this occasion and the pool was the only place to be on such a wet afternoon.

Even better was a delicious plate of Kerry lamb that evening, washed down with a glass of Merlot. I could, I admitted to myself, get used to this kind of cycling.

Where and how

- The Park Hotel in Kenmare offers cycling packages from €365 per person sharing for two-night bed and breakfast and one dinner. The package includes touring information on 18 local routes, bike storage and cleaning, road backup if something goes wrong, and access to the pool and sauna. The use of a personal bike buddy costs €150 a day. A high-energy lunch is provided for €12 and a total muscle massage costs €145. Airport and train transfers can be arranged. Swimming lessons and kayaking can also be organised.

- Bicycles can be hired in Finnegan’s in the town (064-6641083) or arranged through the hotel. Sadly, the local tourist information office was unable to provide much information on cycle tours, aside from a leaflet aim principally at car drivers and walkers.

- Apart from cycling there are many other things to do in Kenmare. We tried horse riding at Tuosist on the Beara peninsula (064 6684994), visited Lorge chocolatier in Bonane (064 6679994), checked our emails in the Carnegie library and sampled the good food to be had in the many cafes and restaurant. Jewellery designer Paul F Kelly’s shop on Henry Street is also worth a visit.

Tips for safe cycling

Own the road. Keep out from the edge where all the glass and potholes are to be found, and force motorists to take you seriously as a road-user, rather than trying to squeeze past you. Buy those silly yellow-tinted sunglasses: they cope with most Irish sun, protect you from loose chippings and insects, and make a bad day appear more attractive.

Pump your tyreshard, thereby reducing road resistance and minimising the risk of punctures.

Travel light.You're a cyclist, not a packhorse, so throw out unnecessary ballast before you leave.