A fine day along the Royal Canal had nature urging us to slow down, writes FRANCIS BRADLEY
Anybody who goes out walking has experienced any or all of these features – even at the same time. But not on this walk. Not on the banks of the Royal Canal between Kilcock and Moyvalley on a gorgeous day – no clouds, no wind, nature urging you to slow down, soak it up – there aren’t many days like this.
Starting out near Kilbrook just west of Kilcock in mid afternoon, there was no urgency even though we were meeting up with some friends for a bite to eat in Furey’s pub in Moyvalley. We ambled down the “old bog road” made famous in verse by Teresa Brayton, a nationalist and poet. She was born in Kilbrook in 1868 and she knew most of the leaders of the 1916 Rising. She wore a chain that held a fragment of the flagpole which flew the flag over the GPO during the rising. The chain was given to her by Countess Markievicz. She died in 1943 and then president Eamon de Valera unveiled a memorial cross over her grave in Cloncurry Cemetery in 1959. More recently, the local community erected a memorial stone at the access point to the “old bog road” on the N4.
Once we reached the canal, it was simply a case of turning left and following your nose. Walking beside a body of water can have a particularly calming effect – so long as it’s not breaking over your head – and this time was no different, the kilometres just dribbled past.
First up was Cloncurry Bridge beside the graveyard that holds Teresa Brayton’s remains. Further on, we spotted a lone swan who, only when we were right beside it, realised our presence and took off with a burst of energy.
The canal was built as an alternative to the Grand Canal with the parallel intention of linking Dublin to the River Shannon. Work commenced in 1790, but it proved to be an expensive and time-consuming exercise costing £1,4201,954, exacerbated by the Duke of Leinster’s decision to build a spur from the canal to his country residence at Carton House.
INITIALLY, THE CANALenjoyed moderate success but in 1845 the Midland Great Western Railway Company purchased the canal in order to build a new rail line. Their dastardly plan was to fill in the canal and build their rail line on it. But the canal had too many awkward bends so they built their line beside it. CIÉ took over the canal in 1944 when bus, rail and tram transport were nationalised and eventually closed the canal to navigation.
The canal fell into disrepair. However, in 1974 a group of eager enthusiasts formed the Royal Canal Amenity Group to look at the possibility of rejuvenating the canal. In 1986 the Office of Public Works took charge of the canal. After many years work by the amenity group, Waterways Ireland, local authorities, the Heritage Boat Association and many others, the canal will reopen to navigation along its entire length, from Dublin to Clondra on the Shannon, in September, 2010.
Our next, notable encounter was Enfield where the harbour area has been restored and contains a very attractive linear park. We had spent so much time dawdling along that we didn’t have time to enjoy the park – besides the fact that we were on the wrong side of the canal!
Further on we crossed the Royal Canal aqueduct over the Blackwater River. It is really strange to stand on a bridge/viaduct and look down into a river below – no drips, no leaks and built 200 years ago! Builders, pay attention!
At Kilmore Bridge we had to change onto the north bank of the canal in order to complete the final 2km to Moyvalley.
Royal Canal walk
STARTTurn right off the N4, 6km beyond Kilcock
FINISHMoyvalley
ALTERNATIVELYGet the Mullingar/Longford train to Kilcock and walk from there. This adds 7km to the distance. The Dublin/Mullingar/Longford bus service stops at Moyvalley, (buseireann.ie)
DISTANCE13km from the "old bog road" to Moyvalley
TIME2.5/3 hours
MAPSOS49
SUITABILITYA moderate walk but not suitable for buggies. Dress appropriately and bring along drinks and snacks – and don't litter
REFRESHMENTSEnfield and Furey's pub, Moyvalley
CRAGGY MOUNTAINS, cloying bog, sweat and rain dripping off the end of your nose, wind howling, no shelter for a cup of tea, your boots leaking and cutting your heels.