Slieve League, Co Donegal:Slieve League puts the Cliffs of Moher in the shade, writes
TONY DOHERTY
I DID A VOX pop recently among friends as to which were the highest cliffs in Ireland. More than 90 per cent said the Cliffs of Moher and many of the million who visit there every year probably think the same. Yet at 200m they are stunted compared with the Slieve League cliffs (595m) in Donegal.
And while Moher's precipice is undoubtedly impressive, the ravaged face of Slieve League bears more dramatic testimony to the mighty power of the physical processes that mould our landscape and which have worn away half of this remarkable mountain.
There are two car parks at Bunglass. If you are leaving your car at the one by the viewing platform, try to avoid looking around the corner at the cliffs as it will spoil their impact at the end of your walk. Around at Malin Beg the walk starts at the new car park at Trabane. A track runs up beside the Silver Strand B&B, which brings you out on to the lower slopes of Leahan (427m).
Once you have forded the stream which crosses it, head south to the edge of the cliffs where you will be rewarded with the first of the day's many magnificent cliff views stretching away south eastwards to Carrigan Head. You can follow the clifftop for about two kilometres at which point you will have to contour inland around a deep gully to get to the foot of Slieve League.
The easiest route to the summit is to keep to the edge of the cliffs where the gradient is less steep. Halfway up there is a great defile, probably formed by the collapse of a cave system. From here, a steep pull on rocky ground will bring you on to the summit and a view that encompasses the mountains of Donegal, Sligo and Mayo.
The first section of the descent involves crossing "One Man's Pass", which belied its name on the day as I met two women striding side by side across it. Erosion by walkers has made it wider but no less intimidating for people who do not like heights.
Below the pass there is a seriously scary arête called Kerringear, which could be correctly called "One Boot Pass" as there were parts of it which looked as if you couldn't put your two feet side by side. This was definitely not for me, so instead I followed the path below it, which runs across a tedious slope of large scree.
I escaped from the scree on to the col below Shanbally (435m). From here to its summit there are intriguing views down vertical rock chimneys on to a mini Alpine landscape of scree slopes, crags and arêtes, showing that ice action has played its part in the destruction of this mountain.
From Shanbally across to spot height 323m, the ground is a mixture of bog and rock and a number of paths have developed on it as people have taken slightly different routes over time. Don't be tempted to drift down to the right from these tracks.
You'll have to negotiate a bit of wet and boggy ground on the way up to Scregeighter (305m), which is the last peak on your route. Below this a path of rock slabs leads down to the viewing platform. Here you can contemplate these great quartzite cliffs which are constantly in retreat due to the combined onslaught of waves, running water, ice and gravity.
You can also be quietly content in the knowledge that having traversed this awesome coastline you have earned the right to spend some time enjoying this unique view.
Start and finish Start at The car park at Trabane (Silver Strand), Malin Beg, grid reference 500 800, and finish at the car park at Bunglass, grid reference 558 757.
How to get there If you have two cars leave one at either end of the walk. If not, leave your car in Bunglass and take a taxi around to Malin Beg. To get to Bunglass, take the R263 west from Killybegs. Turn left at Carrick for Teelin. The route to the cliffs is signposted fromthere.
Ordnance Survey.Discovery Series, sheet 10.
TimeFive hours.
Distance10.5km.
Total ascent700m.
DifficultyRoute is moderate . Compass, map, rain gear are essential.
Food and accommodationMalin Beg, Glencolmcille. Killybegs.