Horsing around in the Andes

Go Feedback:Staying at a colonial hacienda was a faultless introduction to life in rural Ecuador, writes MARGARET SCULLY

COLONIAL EXPLORERS of yore navigated oceans, jungles and mountains to reach Ecuador, one of South America’s smallest countries. Diverse regions from the Andes to the Amazon awed visitors and in 1831 Charles Darwin dropped anchor at the Galapagos Islands to discover the unique wildlife.

We arrived at Hacienda La Alegria, outside Quito after a 12-hour flight from Europe and parked our light luggage next to a big old travel trunk in the reception room. Gabriele Espinosa’s great uncle Juan was an avid adventurer who journeyed between Spain and Ecuador. Ships and horses were his main mode of carriage and the presence of his treasure chest set the scene for slow travel at our colonial port of arrival.

In our quest to go horse-riding in the Andes, internet research led to a family-owned working ranch and organic farm, one hour drive from Quito. Being inexperienced in the saddle, the promise of “horse-riding adventures, some requiring minimum skill” at Hacienda La Alegria seemed a sensible choice. Wood fires, home cooking and a smiling man called Carlos welcomed us with a delicious organic meal fit for an explorer, starting with a tasty corn and cassava soup.

The history of haciendas here dates back hundreds of years to the Spanish conquistadores and in Ecuador, these colonial homestead ranches are located mainly in the Andean highlands.

Alegriameans joy and the hacienda is happily perched at 2,900 metres, enjoying magnificent views of nine volcano peaks, including the sacred Cotopaxi. A stroll around the grounds took us through flower beds, vegetable gardens, orchards, paddocks, milking parlours and stables. The owners, Gabriel Espinosa and his wife Paty, continue the traditions of their ancestors, where horses are paramount. Riding boots, hats and chaps are in plentiful supply and lessons begin after breakfast. Gabriel introduced us to his polite horses and gently eased us into comfortable relations with our mounts.

Our training included the daunting task of kneeling on the horse’s back as it circled the ring. Before departing for our day trek we watched the hacienda’s chagra horsemen display their rodeo skills, rounding up a wild calf. Chagras are skilled Andean cowboys and they make riding a horse look as easy as cycling. Colourfully dressed in llama-skin chaps and poncho, the ever smiling Carlos commanded his lasso as well as his soup ladle. The local town, Machachi, is chagra capital of Ecuador and every July the festival of horse parades, rodeo displays and live music attracts national and international visitors.

Onwards and upwards, we mounted our horses and proceeded along a cobbled Inca path. The views were terrific from my stately stallion called Dante who behaved like a perfect gentleman. A chagra called Hermoso (the beautiful one) and Gabriel led our group as we rode through lush farmland until reaching the high paramo grassland. Wonderful Andean vistas of rocky summit cones and lush valleys provided the backdrop for alfresco lunch. The horses devoured the long fresh grass and we shared apples for desert. There were no panpipes playing but the majestic mountain setting and Gabriel’s stories would whet the appetite of any wannabe explorer.

Gabriel leads long distance horse treks around the country, stopping off at other haciendas. He also joins in the annual rodeo, when chagras take to the hills to bring down thousands of cattle, including the wild Bravo fighting bulls. The horseback in the Andes holiday was off to a great start and we slowly acclimatised to the thin mountain air at over 3,000 metres.

Feeling uplifted, up skilled and a tad saddle-sore after a day on horseback, the relaxing environs of the hacienda were a joy to behold. All 10 rooms have beautiful views and some have wood fires. The home-cooked organic food is grown or reared on the farm, if not sourced locally.

The 300-acre hacienda has a herd of 200 cows, 35 horses, llamas, alpacas, chickens and dogs. Gabriel is experimenting with cheese making which he matures in a cave.

The Espinosas speak fluent English and dinner table conversations ranged from colonial uncles to local shamanic healers, which the workers swear by. Three working families live on the ranch. Women work in the kitchen, garden and the dairy while men folk tend animals and crops. The relationship between the Espinosas and their staff is as loving as that of a large family.

Guests at the hacienda range from novice horsemen, families and trekkers to those in search of a rural retreat. Many esteemed horsemen have holidayed with the Espinosas, including Queen Elizabeth’s master of the horse (leader of the royal parades). As we discovered, the hacienda holiday is a very affordable, wholesome and interesting experience for explorers on any expedition.

Gabriel says “we are not selling a product here but sharing our souls”. That I know is true but I’m still curious about the contents of great uncle Juan’s treasure chest.

• Hacienda La Alegria. See haci endalaalegria.com. From $55pp (€39.50) a night including meals. Ecuador trekking and travel see equatortrekking.com.