GO CITYBREAK:Brighton, not far from London, has been attracting the fashionable and the elite for more than 200 years. Clodagh Mulveysuggests you 'take the waters'
FOR CENTURIES, Brighton in England's sunny southeast has been synonymous with royalty, gentrification and elegant relaxation by the sea. Some 85km from London, it has attracted the fashionable and the elite to "take the waters" for more than 200 years .
But although its reputation for grandeur was garnered in the late 1700s, when the prince regent granted his royal patronage, it is still omnipresent today in the buildings that define this beautiful city.
From the famous promenade, through the historic Lanes to the extravagant centrepiece that is the Royal Pavilion, Brighton is awash with architectural treats for the aesthetic tourist.
By the seaside and stretching for five kilometres along the coast, Brighton's Victorian promenade is graced with a delightful backdrop of regency architecture, while also providing exquisite views of the English Channel.
A leisurely stroll along the walkway will take you past the former home of Lewis Carroll in Kemp Town all the way to Kitty O'Shea's former residence in Hove. The King's Arches, underneath, are host to numerous beachside cafes, restaurants and bars and are a good place to put your feet up and get your bearings when you first arrive for the weekend.
Built on a grid, Brighton's centre is easy to navigate on foot - although it is hilly, so be warned. Heading up West Street from the beach towards North Street and across to East Street, you can readily find yourself back on Brighton's rocks, if relaxing seaside vistas and a glass of your favourite tipple are the order of the day.
You might also want to explore the nearby artists' quarter, where studios of hand-crafted work are open to the public, or amble up to the stunning Grand Hotel on the King's Road for afternoon tea.
In summer, this classy, coastal suntrap is bursting with colour, eccentricity and fun, and the beach comes to life replete with a children's carousel, volleyball and frisbee competitions, giant sand sculptures, live music, wind-surfing and kayaking. A saunter along Brighton pier or a ride on the big dipper is all part of the fun too.
Walking into the town from here will take you down the maze of narrow 16th-century cobbled streets known locally as the Lanes. Home to a busy cafe culture, artisan jewellers, fine tailoring, art and antique shops, there's bound to be something to interest you. If not, cross North Street into Gardner Street and prepare yourself for a rainbow-coloured explosion of bohemian shopping at its best.
Tired on your feet? Go to Choccy Woccy Doo Dah for a fantastic chocolate treat and to Sejuice for a juicy pick-me-up.
Carry further on and you'll come to the Taj Mahal-style royal pavilion, which makes a right royal statement in the heart of the city.
Legendary for its outlandish and out-of-place design in this old English town, it is also the source of Brighton's reputation as a party capital.
Built for the larger-than-life prince regent in the early 1800s, to allow him conduct an illicit affair with the Catholic Mrs Fitzherbert, the Saracenic architecture and flamboyant domes of the palace stand as a majestic testament to this city's fruity roots.
Ryanair ( www.ryanair.com) flies daily to London Gatwick which is a 30-minute train journey from Brighton. Add €20 to the cost of your flight for a return train ticket.
British Airways ( www.britishairways.com) also flies daily to Gatwick. In both cases, book as early as you can to avail of deals.
Where to stay and eat, and what to do in the southern English city
5 Places to stay
The Grand Hotel, 97-99 King's Road, 00-44-1273-224300, www.grandbrighton.co.uk .
This famous, centrally located five-star hotel claims majestic views over the seafront in all directions. The grandeur of the Italian Renaissance architecture marks this iconic building out from the rest. A standard double room starts at €180, but prices rise sharply.
Thistle Brighton, King's Road, 00-44-8703-339129, www.thistle.com/hotels/brighton.
Located on the seafront and around the corner from the Lanes, this four-star 208-bedroom retreat is close to all the city's main attractions. Double rooms cost from €105 a night.
The Granville Hotel, 124 King's Road, 00-44-1273-326302, www.granvillehotel.co.uk.
Design-conscious guests will love this three-star seafront hotel, where each of the 24 rooms are themed individually, with guests choosing anything from the boudoir style of Mrs Fitzherbert's room to the futuristic Lewes Room. Double rooms start at €115 a night.
Jurys Inn, 101 Stroudley Road, 00-44-1273-862121, www.brightonhotels.jurysinns.com/jurysinn_brighton .
Want something familiar? Then this newly opened Jurys hotel should do the trick. It's a two-minute walk from the train station and a five-minute stroll to the sea. Double rooms start at €87 per night.
Colson House B&B, 17 Upper Rock Gardens, 00-44-1273-694922, www.colsonhouse.co.uk .
One of the smart Best Brighton Small Hotels, this offers good value bed and breakfast, and each room is named after a movie icon. Prices start at €49 per person per night.
5 places to eat
The Mad Hatter cafe, 38 Montpelier Road, 00-44-1273-722279, www.themadhattercafe.co.uk .
Alice in Wonderland-themed vegetarian cafe, 15 minutes by foot from the centre of town. Great fresh-food platters and reasonably priced.
The Office, 8 Sydney St, 00-44-1273-609134.
Home to some of the best Thai cuisine in Brighton, this pub in the bohemian North Laines is also a cosy watering hole and won't hurt your worn-out credit card after a day's shopping.
[ www.greyspub.com ]
An Egon Ronay-recommended gastro-pub with live music most nights. You'll climb one of the steepest hills in Brighton to get here, so enjoy an ale before rolling yourself back into town. Delicious and not too pricey.
Food For Friends,17-18 Prince Albert St, The Lanes, 00-44-1273-202310, www.foodforfriends.com .
The oldest vegetarian restaurant in Brighton. The Indian platter for two (about €30) is excellent with a glass of organic wine.
The Grand Hotel, 97-99 King's Road, 00-44-1273-224300, www.grandbrighton.co.uk .
This is the big hitter in town for the big spender. A classy meal for two, plus a bottle of champagne, does not come cheap, but this is the Grand - and it does not disappoint.
5 things to do
Go and see for yourself the eccentric and opulent footprint of the original party animal at the Royal Pavilion (00-44-1273-292820/2, www.royalpavilion.org.uk), and marvel at the design of respected English architect John Nash - also responsible for Trafalgar Square and Marble Arch.
Nip into the Brighton Museum and Art Gallery, Royal Pavilion Gardens, 00-44-1273-292882, www.brighton.virtualmuseum.info, next to the Royal palace for a historical take on the old fishing town of Brighthelm.
For a Tudor experience, head seven kilometres out of Brighton into the South Downs countryside to the small village of Steyning ( www.steyningsouthdowns.com). Most buildings here date to the late 15th century and the architecture is stunning.
Take a trip on what is purported to be the oldest electric train operating in the world today. Volks Electric Railway ( www.volkselectricrailway.co.uk), which was built in 1883, still runs a scenic route along the edge of the beach from Brighton Pier to Black Rock beside the marina.
Brighton Festival ( www.brightonfestival.org) runs for three weeks every May and features an arts and entertainment programme for people of all ages.
Hot spot
The Quadrant (12 North Street, 00-44-1273-203085) is a popular pub in the heart of the city. Recently renovated to its original Victorian glamour, the winding stair walls are lined with period photographs, while a rumoured ghost awaits your entrance to the upper storey.
Where to shop
The Lanes, and nearby North Laine ( www.northlaine.co.uk), provide for an array of tastes. From diamonds, cigars and antiques to kites, crystal balls, arts and crafts, diehard shopper will not tire here. Snoopers' Paradise flea market, Kensington Gardens, is also worth a peep,