Red, white and beer

AL FRESCO: Slake your thirst, but don't fall into the fire, writes Mary Dowey

AL FRESCO: Slake your thirst, but don't fall into the fire, writes Mary Dowey

The first thing that strikes me about cooking out of doors is that those tantalising smells of food on an open fire trigger a powerful thirst (as well as a gorilla-like appetite) - so you'll need to lay in a prodigious amount of booze.

The great thing is that you can keep it really simple. Take a cue from the Australians who can't live without barbies, the South Africans, who flame everything from snoek to seriously weighty sausages on the braai, and the Argentinians, who devour more roasted meat from one asado than you or I would eat in a month, and stick to just two drinks. Beer and wine, and one type of each, unless you're feeling particularly fancy.

Beer first - and plenty of it. "You could kick off with Maeve's from the Dublin Brewing Company - a tasty lager that's middle-of-the-road in style," suggests Cathal McHugh of McHughs in Kilbarrack, voted national beer specialist in the National Off-Licence Association Awards for the second time in 2004. "Or maybe Erdinger - maybe because it's so accessible. It's a bit milder than many German weissbiers. Some are just so tangy that they're an acquired taste."

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If you'd prefer a richer beer to go with all the meat that's roasting on the fire, Cathal suggests Revolution Ale, a classic red ale with an aroma of roasted barley, also from the Dublin Brewing Company. Beers like these three cost 20 to 25 per cent more than mainstream brands but probably taste twice as interesting.

Now wine. Red will be the main event, to suit the robust food on offer. If beef is on the menu, you will need to decide whether to choose a meaty, slightly tannic red to show it off, or to go for something a little softer (on the basis that corks may be pulled and bottles half emptied way before the meat is cooked). Again, barbecue-besotted countries all provide inspiration - Australia with Shiraz, Argentina with Malbec and South Africa with Pinotage. But there are heaps of other possibilities, as you'll see from the lists below.

If you want to serve a white wine first, fire ahead, choosing something fresh, fruity and unoaked such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio or Cotes de Gascogne. But here's a better idea. Why not start with a juicy, flavour-packed rosé? It's galloping back into fashion - that's the first plus. People who aren't mad keen on red wine will be able to keep on drinking it when the food is served, because the richer rosés stand up to gutsy flavours remarkably well.

Although I'd be the last person to urge you to treat your friends to cheap plonk, I don't think it makes much sense to spend a fortune on smart wines for outdoor drinking. All their subtleties will disappear in a puff of smoke. So shop around the more affordable end of the market, doing a trial run with a few single bottles if possible, before you buy in bulk.

TO DRINK OUTDOORS

FAB REDS

JP Tinto, Terras do Sado NV. This Portuguese stalwart is extremely likeable for the money, with raisiny fruit, gentle spice and a squeeze of meaty tannin. From Superquinn; many SuperValus/Centras; O'Donovans, Cork and other outlets, usually €6.99.

Santa Duc Les Plans Vin de Pays de Vaucluse 2002. From respected southern Rhône winemaker Yves Gras here comes the perfect, crowd-pleasing red - fresh and juicy with a hint of herbs. A sensational bargain, and it will go with chicken or pork just as well as beef or lamb. From Le Caveau, Kilkenny, €9.95.

GUTSY ROSÉ

Vigna Corvina Cerasuolo, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2003. No pale, shrinking pink this! Deep cranberry in colour, it's a brilliantly punchy wine with refreshing flavours of red summer fruits and herbs, which linger impressively. A great bargain and it'll hold its own with just about any kind of food. From O'Briens, usually €9.99, on special offer at €7.99 during May.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Labeye Cuvée Guilhem Syrah, Minervois 2001. With its rich, smoky aromas, this alluring Languedoc red will put you in the mood for an open-fire feast from the very first sip. But it's not the sort of meaty monster that you'd tire of after half a glass, thank heavens. This is a really well judged wine with a silky texture, good acidity and just the amount of tannic grip. It tastes so much closer to €12 that I triple-checked the price. From Oddbins, €8.99.

Las Moras Malbec Reserva, San Juan 2002. If you'd prefer a New World red which will suit chunky food but also slip down by itself with no pain, try this suave version of Argentina's star turn, Malbec. It's terrifically smooth, with damson and blackberry flavours perked up with a dusting of spice. From Redmonds, Ranelagh; Higgins, Clonskeagh; Baily Wines, Howth; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Lord Mayors, Swords; Eurospar, Lucan; Cheers-Wicklow Arms, Delgany; O'Dwyers, Navan; Gaffneys, Ballina & Castlebar, €9.99.