Bethany Hamilton, pro surfer who lost her arm in a shark attack
The first time I got on a surfboard . . .
was before I could even walk. I think I have been hooked since then.
The best day of my life so far . . .
I’ve had so many good days, but maybe my first day surfing with one arm.
And the worst . . .
no question – the day of shark attack.
Losing my arm . . .
meant that my life sort of came to a halt, it was crazy. We really didn’t know what God was up to, but we just trusted in him.
I got back in the water after one month because . . .
I guess my passion for surfing outweighs my fear of what’s out in the ocean. I’m more scared to not surf than to go back into the ocean.
My faith . . .
I love God and I try to just be a good light to people and share his love. I wake up every day and [try to] honour God in everything that I do and I may fall short sometimes, but all I want to do is love him.
My favourite way to relax is . . .
to surf, hang out with my friends and laugh. Being home is always a good way for me to be able to relax.
Turning professional . . .
was a goal that came true for me. I work really hard at my surfing so to have accomplished becoming a professional surfer was incredible.
Women’s surfing is really exciting right now, so it’s really awesome to be a part of and I’m blessed to travel and surf all over the world.
My guilty pleasure is . . .
organic dark chocolate.
When people say I’m an inspiration . . .
I’m kind of used to it now, but it does feel weird. I’m just me doing what I love and I guess that inspires people. I’m glad I can be an inspiration and role model to others.
I realise that there are not a lot of great role models out there for young girls to look up to.
The thing people would be most surprised to know about me is . . .
I love to prepare and cook healthy organic meals. I also love learning about the body, health and sharing my healthy lifestyle.
In conversation with
Sinead Gleeson
Soul Surfer is released on September 23rd. Bethanyhamilton.com
