The second half of the tour around Lough Erne's shores reveals relics of the region's strategic importance and prehistoric settlements, writes BOB MONTGOMERY
IN TOTAL contrast to Upper Lough Erne and its multitude of tightly packed islands, Lower Lough Erne is a vast expanse of water with its islands spread out mainly along its northern and eastern shores. Indeed, the lough is large enough to have been the site of flying boat operations during the Second World War when Short Sunderlands were based here.
The town of Enniskillen, standing as it does on the ribbon of land between the lower and upper lakes, held a position of strategic importance from earliest times (commanding the passage between Tír Eoghain and Connacht) and was the location of many battles down the centuries.
Leaving Enniskillen, we travelled in a clockwise direction around the lough on the A46. Just past the impressive gates of Portora Royal School is a turning to the right that leads to the ruins of Portora Castle, a “plantation” castle built by Sir William Cole in 1618. All along this route are many diversions to castles, prehistoric sites, forest walks, jetties and most impressive of all, Lough Navar Forest Park, with its views across Lower Lough Erne from the heights of the Cliffs of Magho.
To reach Lough Navar Forest Park, continue along the A46 for about 16km before turning left on the B81 signposted for Derrygonnelly, from where the Forest Park is signposted. Follow the signage for the Cliffs of Magho within the forest park – there is a large car park overlooking the lough and on a good day the views are magnificent over this impressive stretch of water.
Continuing on towards the west, the famous pottery town of Belleek is at the western extremity of our exploration, and incidently, the most westerly town in Northern Ireland. A visit to the town would not be complete without a visit to the visitor centre of the famous Belleek Pottery that also houses a small museum. Belleek was once the site of a major ford across the river Erne and it’s Irish name “Béal Leice” means “Flagstone Ford”.
We now switch to the A47 as we swing back towards the northeast and onto the northern shore of Lower Lough Erne. The road passes the nature reserve of Castle Caldwell Forest and many small jetties before coming to a fork in the road about 13km from Belleek. The road left leads to the village of Pettigo while the A47 leads us onto Boa Island from where a ferry takes travellers across the short crossing to Lusty Beg and Lusty More islands. To my mind, some of the best views of Lower Lough Erne are to be had from the stretch of road that traverses the elongated Boa Island.
All too soon the A47 joins the A35 and runs through the village of Kesh, whose name is an anglicisation of its Irish name, “An Cheis”, the “Wicker Causeway”. From Kesh there is a choice of several routes back to our starting point at Enniskillen. My suggestion is to take the road that keeps you closest to the lake shore and which takes you along the edge of Castle Archdale Forest, which is itself worth taking an extra hour to two to explore before travelling on through Lisnarick and on into Enniskillen. This last part of our exploration skirts the area of the lough which is most populated by islands as well as St Angelo – Enniskillen’s airport.
There is so much to see and do along this route that anything less than a leisurely day would not do it justice. And its variety is such that a journey around its edges will be a different journey for everyone who makes it.