GREAT IRISH DRIVES:The Burren region is a spectacular range of mountains and limestone panoramas, writes BOB MONTGOMERY
IT’S BEEN far too long since we last visited the Burren region on behalf of this column. One of the very first articles in the first series described the road at Ballyalban, which climbs through some of the most spectacular landscape at the heart of the Burren and is still used annually (along with nearby Corkscrew Hill) as the venue for a very challenging motorsport hillclimb.
The Burren, from the Irish word “boireann”, meaning “the stoney district”, is an area of limestone rock covering some 50 square miles in north county Clare. It’s a strange area, with a landscape quite unlike any other in Ireland, and consists of succession upon succession of limestone terraces, hidden among which are rare flora, including several Alpine-Arctic types.
The entire area is rich in historical and archaeological sites, including more than 90 megalithic tombs and portal dolmens as well as a number of interesting ring forts – chief among them being the triple ring fort Cahercommaun, on the edge of an inland cliff, and the exceptionally well-preserved Caherconnell stone fort.
There are many caves in the soft limestone, the most spectacular with access for the public being Aillwee Cave near Ballyvaughan, which was discovered as recently as 1940, and is well worth a visit as is the Burren Centre at Kilfenora, where one can gain a better understanding of this unique region.
We continued our exploration by way of the coast road, which winds its way around Black Head and along the edge of the Burren to the west of Ballyvaughan. Ballyvaughan, from the Irish Baile Uí Bhuirne – O’Beacháin’s town – is a pretty village which makes an ideal centre for exploring the Burren. Leaving the village we kept along the edge of Ballyvaughan Bay. Along this road, the lush vegetation obscures a lot of the sea views, but the limestone peaks of Cappanawalla (312m), Gleninagh (317m) and Murrooghtoohy North (314m) rise successively to the southwest of the road. As we near Black Head itself – marked by a lighthouse – the road clings to the edge of the mountains close to the shoreline.
Rounding Black Head the Aran Islands are clearly visible away to the west as the coast road turns to head southwest.
A short distance further on the road moves slightly inland, still bordered to the left by the limestone mountains that sweep down to meet it in spectacular fashion before reaching the small village of Fanore with its attractive nearby beach.
For those who want to extend their exploration further, there’s a left turn at Fanore that climbs up through a spectacular gorge, flowing alongside the path of the River Caher for a while before eventually meeting the N67.
Meanwhile, the coast road continues along the edge of the limestone mountain range – now dominated by Slieve Elva (344m) – and travels through the village of Craggagh, before eventually turning away from the sea to head southeast towards the town of Lisdoonvarna.
I can’t recommend the Burren region enough for its different, other-worldly feel, and its many roads waiting to take you to new wonders of this utterly unique landscape. I hope to return again soon for a longer exploration.