GREAT DRIVES: In the last in this year's series of Ireland's greatest routes, we uncover a gem on the shores of Lough Brin in Co Kerry
IN PREPARATION for this series I regularly spend time examining the Ordnance Survey Discovery Series of maps, searching for roads that look as if they might be worth exploring. Sometimes one road in the series leads to another – so it was with the Tim Healey Pass, which led to the discovery of the magnificent hidden valley of Glanmore Lake that appeared earlier in this year’s series. And so it was with the final drive in last year’s series – the Gap of Dunloe in Kerry – along with which I wrote about the Black Valley.
But on the day of that drive I also spotted another promising road which, on looking up the map over the winter, looked as if it might be particularly interesting. Not only did it prove interesting, indeed spectacular, but it introduced me to another less-visited, and fascinating landscape in the Iveragh Peninsula.
There are two ways to access this drive. For a shorter route, travel to the well-known Moll’s Gap and continue southeast along the R568 for a little less than a kilometre before turning off. Upon reaching a T-junction after a further kilometre and a half, turn left to join this drive.
However, taking this shorter version of this drive robs you of some of the most fascinating landscape to be found in Kerry. To do the entire drive I suggest leaving Killarney along the N72 and turning off at Beaufort. Follow the signs to take you over the famous Gap of Dunloe. This is best done early before there is much jaunting cart traffic on this narrow road. If you are lucky enough to have a fine morning, it is magnificent in the early morning light. Having descended the other side of the Gap, turn left at the first T-junction you meet. A short distance further along this road take the first, narrow turn to the right. This the beginning of our drive to Lough Brin.
The initial stages of the drive are nothing special, but before long the road is joined by the fast-flowing Owenreagh River. For a large part of the route to Lough Brin the river runs almost beside the road, often in the most spectacular fashion. By now we’ve entered a valley almost devoid of human habitation nestled between the high foothills of the MacGillycuddy Reeks to its north (Knocknabreeda 569m and Knockaunanattin, also 569m) and the peaks of Boughil (631m) and Knocklomena (641m) to the south. Ahead to the west lie several peaks, each dwarfed by Mullaghanattin at 773m.
Eventually the Owenreagh River is left behind as we travel high along the slopes of Knocklomena. Suddenly, between the peaks, a verdant valley surrounding a lake comes into view below the road ahead. This is Lough Brin, a green oasis in this ring of mountains. At the end of Lough Brin our road swings south and continues on until it reaches a junction with the R568. Here you can turn right and continue on to the town of Sneem or turn left and return to Moll’s Gap.
This is one of the most spectacular drives I’ve encountered and I can thoroughly recommend a leisurely exploration of its route.
It brings to an end on a high note this current series of Great Drives. We’ll return in the spring with more great Irish roads for you to explore.