GARDENS:The trend in gardening has gone dramatically towards growing vegetables rather than flowers
IN THE PASTfew years, there has been a revolution in the garden. The vegetables are rising. Consider this – a decade ago, edible crops made up 30 per cent of major seed companies' annual sales, with ornamentals garnering the other 70 per cent. By 2009, however – after a steady surge in backyard and allotment food growing – the figures were reversed. Vegetable seed sales had grown to 70 per cent, with flower seed purchases shrinking correspondingly. Shame about the flowers, but isn't it great that so many people are taking an interest in raising their own food?
GETTING IT RIGHT
Growing vegetables is easy. No matter how inexpert one’s first endeavours are, there is always something to eat, even though it might not win any prizes at the local horticultural society’s vegetable competition (or then again, it might, as there are often categories for beginners). If you’re starting out this year, you can save yourself some trouble later on by getting a few things right at this end of the season.
Don’t be in a rush to get things into the ground – relax! It’s only March, and we’ve had a cold, cold winter. Soil temperatures are still low, and seeds and plantlets are likely to be shocked into stasis if you put them in now. In warmer areas with light soil, wait until at least mid or late April; if you are in a colder area, or have heavy soil, wait until May.
But there are always exceptions: broadbeans can be sown now, and garlic cloves and onion sets can be planted over the next month. Early potatoes can also be put in during the coming weeks.
Grow only the food that you really like: if you don’t care for Brussels sprouts or beetroot, then forget about them. Spend your time and energy on the things that make your mouth water.
Be proud of your veg patch: don’t hide it away. Put your food crops where you can see them. You’ll be more likely to notice if your potatoes need earthing up, or if the runner beans could do with some help climbing their canes. Pests are more easily thwarted if you spot their damage (and do something about it) in the early stages.
Vegetables are like humans – they want the best place in the garden, where there is sunlight and shelter from wind. So don’t be thinking about sticking them in the shade under the old conifer, or in that breezy spot behind the shed. They also need good, fertile soil and regular moisture.
Food crops get their nutrition from the soil, so you need to replace what they take out. A wheelbarrow of well-rotted manure, or two of garden compost, is about the right amount for 10sq m of soil.
KNOW YOUR SOIL
Clay soilsticks to your tools and boots. When it is wet, you can roll it into a ball, stretch it into a sausage, and curl it round into a doughnut – just like plasticine. It is slow to warm up in spring, and may set hard, like a brick, in a dry summer. But it is usually fertile and moisture-retaining, and is good for vegetables. Don't try to dig it while it is wet. Add compost to break it up and to attract worms, which will do the digging for you. Grit also helps to open it up.
Sandy soilfeels gritty in your palm. It may clump together when you squeeze it, but you can break it apart easily. It is free-draining, retains little moisture, and is often lacking fertility. It warms up quickly in spring and can be planted earlier than other soils. Big leafy vegetables such as cabbage and spinach may do poorly: try sprouting broccoli and Swiss chard instead. Herbs and carrots do well, and most other veg are happy enough if you add plenty of garden compost to the soil.
Loamy soilmay roll into a ball, and even into a sausage, but not with any conviction. This is the best soil, with just the right mixture of sand, clay, silt and humus. It is perfect for vegetables (and almost everything else). If you have it, lucky you!
SOME SOIL RULES, OKAY?
Don't walk on it:this compacts it and destroys the structure. Raised beds (about 1m-1.2m wide) allow you to reach across from either side, without stepping on the soil.
Don't dig it: this also destroys the structure. You may want to give it an initial dig when you are making the beds, but after that, if you layer compost on it in autumn, the worms will do the digging for you.
Do mulch it:to retain moisture, keep down weeds and protect the structure. Use grass clippings, straw or newspaper.
