WINE:A torrent of very different Spanish wines from new regions is flowing our way, writes John Wilson
LAST WEEK, we looked at some of the new white wine regions of Spain. But it is the red wines that have got tongues wagging and salivating. Over the past decade, a torrent of very different, exciting wines have been released, making Spain the first port of call for many wine lovers. If Tempranillo still rules as Spain's greatest grape, nowadays we can also try out Mencia, Garnacha, Cariñena, Graciano, Monastrell and Bobal.
The new regions can be divided roughly into two chunks. There is a band of vineyards running across the north of Spain. Sheltered from the cooling Atlantic influences, but not as hot as further south, these regions offer wines that are ripe, but usually with a degree of elegance. All over the south of Spain, below Madrid (and more recently around the city), there are vast swathes of vineyard that once supplied massive quantities of basic jug wine. There is still plenty of volume, but these days the quality has increased dramatically, and there are plenty of well-made, fruit-filled wines. Below is a whirlwind tour of the best new areas of Spain.
Bierzo
One of the coolest "hot" new regions, Bierzo produces elegant, cool wines. The local grape is Mencia, which has generally a pale colour, delicate flavours, and often with a refreshing acidity and a savoury fruitiness.
Ribera del Duero
A couple of hour's drive north of Madrid lie some of Spain's best new vineyards. Ribera del Duero, Toro and Cigales are the leading names. All use a local clone of Tempranillo to make wines that are a world away from Rioja; big, rich and full of powerful plum fruits.
Aragon
Further east in Aragon you will find three lesser-known names that are well worth seeking out. Campo de Borja and Calatayud make delicious rich fruit-filled reds. Somontano, in the foothills of the Pyrenees, makes distinctly lighter, more elegant, wines.
Priorat
High up in the imposing mountains to the west of Barcelona, are some of the most spectacular vineyards in the world. A wide range of grape varieties are grown, but Garnacha would be the most traditional. The wines are big and muscular with plenty of tannins. The surrounding regions of Monsant, Costers del Segre and Conca de Barberà are also worth a look.
Alicante, Yecla, Jumilla, Bullas
Further south, as the weather gets warmer, the wines are bigger and more structured. These four areas to the west of Alicante once produced truckloads of plonk. Nowadays you will find rich warming wines with real power and body.
FOUR TO TRY:
Sardon del Duero Abadia Retuerta Rivola 2005, 13.5%, €17.99.From an area just outside Ribera del Duero, Abadia are one of my favourite producers. This is a stunning wine with pure ripe damson fruits and wonderful elegant length. A must try. Stockists:Avoca Handweavers; The Drink Store, Manor St.; The Hole in the Wall, Dublin 7; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; McHughs Off Licence, Malahide Road & Kilbarrack Road; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Enowine, Monkstown & IFSC; Listons, Camden St.; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Patrick Stewart Wines, Sligo; Power & Smullen, Lucan; Red Island Wine, Skerries.
Uttaris 2005 Bierzo, 13%, €12.A great introduction to the Mencia grape, grown only in north-western Spain. This is light but concentrated, with utterly delicious, slightly savoury raspberry fruits, a deft touch of oak, and an rounded finish. Try it with medium-bodied dishes. Stockists:Enowine, IFSC & Monkstown; The Organic Shop, Laragh; Haddington Delicatessen; Wicklow Wine Co; Listons, Camden Street; Dunnes Butchers, Donnybrook; The Drinkstore, Manor Street; Lilliput Store, D3; www.spanishwines.ie; Ennis Butchers, SCR; Mortons, Ranelagh; Deveney's, Rathmines; Bin No9, Goatstown; Red Island, Skerries; The Laurels, Perrystown.
La Legua Crianza 2005, Cigales, 13.5%, €12.25.Made from Tempranillo, this has lively rich blackcurrant fruits with cloves. Concentrated, but balanced, this really grows on you with each sip. Try it with shepherd's pie. Stockist:Wines Direct, www.winesdirect.ie1890-579579.
Blason de Romera 2005, Ribera del Duero, 13.5%, €11.00.Drier than the wines above, but with very attractive plum fruits and a lightly drying finish. Great price too. Better with food - I had mine with calf's liver. Stockists: www.spanishwines.ie, Ennis Butchers South Circular Road; Listons of Camden Street.
VISITING BODEGAS
As I mentioned last week, Spain has some of the most avant-garde wineries in the world, often designed by leading architects. My personal favourites include the Torres Single Vineyard Cellar in Pacs, close to Vilfranca del Penedes. A brand new cellar that offers a train journey through the vineyards and a futuristic multi-media show. Well worth a visit.
Bodegas Ysios in Briones (Rioja) is one of the most spectacular sights you will find in any vineyard, designed by Santiago Calatrava. A trip to the local wine museum, with excellent restaurant is also recommended. Also essential if in Rioja, is the new Frank Gehry bodegas at Marques de Riscal. Somontano, high in the Pyrenees a few hours north of Barcelona, has a number of superb modern bodegas, including Bodegas Irius, Olvena, Viñas del Vero, and Enate.