Fit for a wedding feast

WINE:When choosing your wines, remember that you are buying for a large group of people with varying tastes

I HAVE ATTENDED more weddings than most, having worked as part-time lounge boy and barman in a hotel throughout my teenage years. Weddings in those pre-Celtic Tiger days were very different affairs. The classic breakfast consisted of a rectangular slice of ham (from a large tin) topped with some ready-made stuffing and a few slices of roast turkey. This was kept warm in a steamer for an hour or two, alongside some mushy veg, before being anointed with gravy and served. My own meal was kept warm for a further five hours until I finished my shift. I must have eaten several thousand roast stuffed turkey and ham.

This was all washed down with a rake of pints for the lads, and vodka and orange or Babycham for the girls. There was a wine cellar, which also held the beer kegs, but only once can I remember anyone actually ordering a bottle. Times have changed, and the Irish wedding is now a far more elaborate affair. The drinks requirements are considerably more sophisticated, too. For those of you about to take the plunge (and your long-suffering parents), here are a few guidelines for the liquid side of things.

What to buy

Most weddings start with a glass of something sparkling, or a cocktail, followed by a white with the starter, and a red with the main course. After the speeches, it is customary to have another glass of fizz with the cake and toast the happy couple.

When choosing your wines, remember that you are buying for a large group of people with varying tastes. As one importer put it to me, "always remember Auntie Mary in the corner". It is best to avoid wines that have too much of anything - whether it is oak, alcohol or even flavour! Think twice before offering Champagne to the guests on arrival. The real thing is one of the world's great aperitifs, and will go down a treat. But there is nothing worse than bad Champagne - with fresh tastebuds and an empty stomach, your guests will notice every imperfection. There are now some good inexpensive Champagnes around, but there are also still plenty of very ropey examples, too. If you cannot find or afford a really good one, the added fruit in a Buck's Fizz or Kir Royale will hide all sorts of shortcomings. Another option is to serve a New World sparkler (there is no shortage of choices) or the current fashion favourite, Prosecco. Although never as complex, Prosecco is fruitier, and sometimes a little sweeter. I find most people prefer it.

For the meal, do a rough match with the food - white with fish, red with meat, and try to match the weight of the wine, too. Most starters, be they smoked salmon, seafood, salads or tartlets, will go nicely with a fairly light, fruity white wine. I would look out for an un-oaked Chardonnay, a nice fresh Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Albariño, Muscadet or even Riesling to start off with.

Follow that with a similar red: a Merlot or Cabernet from Australia or Chile, a southern French red or Côtes du Rhône, a Rioja or maybe a Valpolicella. Lamb or beef, the traditional choices, need something with a bit of fruit, but something too dry and tannic may offend Auntie Mary. If you are having salmon with the main course, a full-bodied white - Chardonnay springs to mind - or a light red such as Beaujolais, Fleurie, Saumur-Champigny will do the trick.

For the toast, most people return to the Champagne. However, given that your mouth will be full of a very sweet and rich wedding cake, it may not show at its best. Something sweeter is a better option. It may not be trendy, but a glass of Moscato d'Asti or even Asti Spumante, with their vibrant grapey fruit and sweetish finish would be my first choice. This takes a certain nerve I will admit, as many wine drinkers turn their noses up at sweet wines. It might be safer to revert to the Prosecco.

Where to buy

If your wedding is to be held in a hotel, you will probably be handed a list of house wines. Some hotel lists are far better than others - it all depends on how much they care. I know very little about the economics of operating a hotel, and would never deny the proprietors the opportunity to make a living. However, I do consider quadrupling the cost price of a wine to be extortionate. Double cost is very reasonable, triple probably fairly standard.

If none of the wines take your fancy, you may be allowed to bring in your own wine on payment of a corkage charge. As this is normally at least €20 and often more, it will not necessarily mean any saving. Remember that you will have to keep an eye on unused wines as they have a habit of "disappearing" after the event. However, you will be able to choose your own wine, and as corkage is charged at a flat rate, you will make a greater saving on more expensive wines. If you can buy your own wine, you have a number of options open to you. There is a steady stream of Irish consumers taking the booze-cruise over to France to stock up on cheap wines. I have never taken the trip, so cannot really comment on many of the wines.

However, a quick look on the internet revealed that UK chain Majestic has a warehouse in Cherbourg. If you are going to Roscoff, I have several friends who swear by The Wine Beer Supermarket. Looking through the prices of both, the biggest savings are on sparkling wines and Champagnes, as our government takes a double duty on anything fizzy. I also understand that Brittany Ferries has a fairly serious wine shop on board.

Another option is to head North, where there are plenty of supermarkets, and the excellent James Nicholson, too. However, UK wine duties are creeping ever closer to our own, and the exchange rate is still not that favourable. However, shopping locally does offer many advantages, and would be my favourite option. You can discuss the wine with the shop manager, taste a few wines, and even try a couple at home before making a decision. Most shops will allow you to return unused bottles after the event. Expect a discount of 5-10 per cent, possibly more.

A couple of final pieces of advice; do not forget the non-drinker. There are plenty of interesting fruit cocktails that can be made up on the day. Second, you don't have to go mad on your wedding wine, but please try to avoid the very cheapest - you may be too busy enjoying yourself to notice the difference, but your guests will.

Sparkling wines

Jacob's Creek Sparkling, Australia 11.5% (€13.99). It won't impress the label readers, but JC fizz is one of the great all-time value bottles of wine. Rounded apple fruits, a creamy touch with plenty of zip, too. I would rather drink this than a number of Champagnes at more than twice the price. Stockists: Widely available from independents, as well as Spar, Dunnes Stores, Tesco, Superquinn, Centra.

Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Jeio NV 11.5% (€17.50). This is not the cheapest Prosecco on the market, but I reckon it is one of the best. Thirst-quenching ripe pears and peaches with a classy citrus note. A great way to start and finish the meal. Stockists: Bin No. 9, Goatstown; Next door, nationwide; O'Donovan's, Cork; Patrick Stewart, Sligo; Walsh Enterprises, Westport.

Champagne Beaumont de Crayères Grande Réserve NV 12% (€26.99). If it must be Champagne, then O'Briens have some very stylish options. The Grande Réserve from Beaumont de Crayères is a wonderful rich creamy Champagne with delicious strawberry shortbread and raspberries. Just don't waste it on Buck's Fizz - this deserves to be enjoyed alone, in all its splendour. Stockists: O'Briens Wine.

White wines

Cantina di Monteforte Soave Classico 2007 12% (€10.99). Instead of going for an anaemic Pinot Grigio, why not try a light, refreshing Soave? This example has very attractive apple fruits, a squeeze of lemon and a dry finish. It will slip down all too easily with salads, fish, seafood and savoury tartlets. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer St; The Wine Cellar, Maynooth; Cellars, The Big Wine Warehouse, Naas Road, Jus de Vine, Portmarnock, and www.wineonline.ie.

Domaine de Pellehaut Harmonie de Gascogne 2006 VdP des Côtes de Gascogne 12% (€9.95). The Côtes de Gascogne is one of the best places to look for crisp dry whites at great prices. This is one perfect example. A quite delicious dry white with subtle Sauvignon aromas, rounded green fruits, and lemon zestiness. Great on its own, with fish, seafood and salads. Stockists: Mitchell & Sons, Kildare St, Glasthule and Rathfarnham; Anderson's, Glasnevin; French Flair, Tralee; World Wide Wines, Waterford; and many other independent wine shops.

Montana Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Marlborough, New Zealand 13% (€12.99). Marlborough Sauvignon seems to be everyone's favourite, so you might as well give it your consideration. The pungent but rich Montana, with its ripe green fruits, offers great value for money if you can get it on promotion for around €10. Sauvignon is a good all-purpose wine, with or without food. Stockists: Very widely available, including Spar, Dunnes Stores, Tesco, Superquinn and Centra.

Red wines

Cono Sur Merlot, Central Valley, Chile 2005 14% (€8.99). At 14%, it might be too powerful, but it is rescued by the lovely plump plum fruits with a hint of peppery spice. Cono Sur is one of the best producers in Chile. This is one to match with beef, lamb or pork, but many would be quite happy to drink this solo. Stockists: Available in many hotels, as well as Super Valu, Dunnes Stores, Spar, Londis, Tesco, Superquinn and Centra.

Degani Valpolicella 2006 12.5% (€12.99). I love good Valpol; it should be light, with slightly sour cherry fruits, lowish alcohol, and no drying tannins on the finish. It is one of the best easy-drinking, all-purpose food wines around. If you are having your wedding in Italy, Valpolicella would certainly be an option, but at home, I would also seek this particular wine out; it is one of the most attractive wines around, and will slowly seduce your guests over the course of the meal. Stockists: On The Grapevine, Dalkey and Booterstown; Cabot and Co. Westport; Nicola's Food Emporium Westport; Poppy Seed, Clarinbridge; Mount Gable Gifts, Clonbur; World Wide Wines, Waterford.

Beaujolais Villages Domaine de la Madonne 2005 12.5% (€13.50). Lovely easy juicy strawberry fruits, and nary a tannin in sight, this is a crowd-pleasing wine that would work very nicely with a buffet, or hot chicken and pork dishes. If you can stretch to the Fleurie from the same estate (at €16.95), you will be rewarded with more fruit, and a real touch of class. Stockists: Mitchell & Son, Kildare St, Glasthule, and Rathfarnham.