Winemakers in New Zealand have discovered a perfect place to grow that most difficult of grapes, Pinot Noir, writes JOHN WILSON
THE AUSSIES must really hate their New Zealand neighbours right now. The two nations have always enjoyed what is politely referred to as friendly rivalry in all things, but now, not only have New Zealand retained rugby’s Bledisloe Cup for a sixth successive year, but New Zealand wines seem to be competing and winning against their Antipodean rivals on the world stage. A decade ago it all looked so different. On the white wine front, New Zealand Sauvignon was good but very expensive, and no competition for the well-priced rich Australian Chardonnays on the big international markets. New Zealand Cabernets and Merlots tended to be light and herbaceous, no match at all for the big Aussie Cabs and Shiraz.
But over the past 10 years all has changed. As plantings increased and the New Zealand dollar dropped in value, the wines have become much cheaper. Marlborough Sauvignon has become the world’s most fashionable wine. Even the Australians have not been immune. Last year a New Zealand Sauvignon was ranked in the top 10 most popular wines in Australia, the first time a foreign wine has ever appeared.
When it comes to red wine, things have altered too. Winemakers around the world have long searched for the perfect place to grow that most difficult of grapes, Pinot Noir. A few parts of Australia, notably Tasmania, the Yarra Valley, and the Mornington Pensinula have performed well. But New Zealand, with its cooler climate and long cool growing season, has been the clear winner. Right now, few would argue that New Zealand produces the best Pinot Noir outside of Burgundy (although Oregon might grumble a little). It is now the most widely planted red variety. Fortunately for the Kiwis, Pinot Noir has been achingly fashionable for a number of years, helped on by the comedy film Sideways. It is also perfectly suited to modern pan-Asiatic cuisine.
Within New Zealand, two regions lead the way, with a few others following behind. Martinborough, probably the first region to take Pinot seriously, is the most Burgundian of the three, serving up lovely rich meaty wines, sometimes with an earthy edge. The finest are astoundingly good. The best I have tasted are the Ata Rangi below, closely followed by Craggy Range, and then Coney and Palliser (sadly not currently being imported into Ireland).
Martinborough lies close to the capital, Wellington, on the North Island. Much further south is Central Otago, the newest but so far the most successful producer of Pinot. Central Otago has a continental climate (the rest of the wine country is maritime) and with it some bitterly cold winters, and a very dry growing season. Frost is a danger at springtime. It is a great climate for aromatic grape varieties, with Riesling and Pinot Gris both showing real promise. However, it is Pinot Noir that has made all the headlines.
At its best, Central Otago Pinot has a superb lifted fragrance and wonderful succulent fruits. Felton Road was not the first winery, but has certainly been the market leader. Most wineries are very new and fairly small, so the selection available in Ireland is not great. However, both Mount Difficulty and Mud House are worth buying if you come across them.
Marlborough, famous for its Sauvignon, has struggled to find its feet with Pinot. Most are pleasantly fruity, without offering the excitement of Martinborough or Central Otago. But two other lesser-known regions, Nelson and Waipara are both producing some very high quality Pinot Noir, well worth trying if you come across them. Woollaston, Kaimira and Seifried are the three names to look out for in Nelson, Pegasus Bay and Waipara Springs in Waipara.
Overall, things are looking up for Pinot lovers. Not only is Chile starting to produce some very decent inexpensive Pinot Noir, but with the NZ dollar continuing to lose value, the New Zealand versions should continue to drop in price too.
jwilson@irishtimes.com