Sugans, Slovakian candlesticks and Sam Maguire

Roses. And Sam. You can't spend an afternoon in Tralee without being reminded of those transient citizens of the county. Pictures of past Roses of Tralee bloom in many of the shops and the October editions of the Kerryman are taped to windows everywhere, the Sam Maguire Cup displayed like the Holy Grail on their front pages. When you've finished reading about Sam, there's lots more to see on the other side of those shop windows.

Iota, at 38 Bridge Street, was opened earlier this year by Avril Sheehan. It's an expensive but gorgeous boutique where you won't be in the door five seconds before you spot something on its rails that makes you wish you played the Lotto more often. Avril stocks Sticky Fingers, Out of Xile, Nougat, Morgan and three Irish designers - John Rocha, Allicano, and Andrea Cleary.

The shop is a bright, shining cavern of beautifully cut fabric, all silver and russet, smoky-blue and sea-green. I coveted a long, green, velvet dress, printed with feathers, by Allicano for £196. Then I added to my imaginary shopping basket a silver crochet cardigan by Nougat. John Rocha's denim jacket for £80 followed. A red velvet coat by Andrea Cleary was £240; something you wouldn't want to be leaving behind you on the bus. There are also wonderful ribbed jumpers for £65 and turquoise scarves by Morgan for £19.

Avril sells gift vouchers, so you could hint like crazy to your best-heeled friends and relations for one as a present. Failing that, there's the sale in January.

The first thing that hits you when you go into McAuliffes of 11 Upper Castle Street is the heady smell of leather. McAuliffes still mend shoes and do leather repairs on one side of the premises. The rest of the shop is filled with leather bags, wallets, belts and even dog-leads. There's a range of smart-looking briefcases from £40, wallets from £20 to £40 and simple straight-cut belts from £9. There are fancier belts, with elaborate buckles, by Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein for £17.

To keep all this hide in good order you can buy tins of saddle soap and neatsfoot oil for a couple of pounds a tin.

A few doors away at 18 Castle Street, is Seasur. This is the type of shop where you go for candles and Christmas decorations and where you end up being sidetracked by intriguing stocking-fillers such as "magic face-towel: place in water and watch it grow" in a tiny tin for £2.25.

There are Christmas cookie-cutters in the shapes of stars, angels and bells; pendants in little satin boxes for £2; Kilner jars in blue glass for £3.95. A buttercup-yellow cup and saucer is also £3.95. There are scoops of pot-pourri for £1 and classic square-cut Slovakian crystal candlesticks for £7.50. Also in stock are espresso sets, padded lap-trays for £20 and hologramatic picture frames for £7.

There are black candles, jewelled gold candles in the shape of orbs for £5.25, candles with snowflakes printed on them for £1.75, floating candles and even musical candles that will sing Jingle Bells as they burn.

Madden's, in Milk Market Lane, first opened its doors in 1860. Originally a coopers, grocers, flour and meal merchants, it only ceased trading as a grocery within the last year. Mrs Madden's father worked on the Dingle-Tralee railway and there is a photo of him over the door on the train to prove it. The Maddens still sell free-range eggs and homemade cakes, advertised by a board on the pavement outside "to attract the customers". The shop now sells antiques.

There can't be many shops around the country now where you can go and warm yourself at a proper open fire, but Maddens is one. You can test out one of the £50 handmade sugan chairs while defrosting your feet. There were two wonderful 1930s Art Deco armchairs on sale the day I was there - £100 for the two. "And the couch is out the back if you're interested." In the corner was a working radiogram, belting out Wonderwall, for £55; the only radiogram I've ever seen in working order.

There were also tilly lamps, bottles, glasses, a marble-topped washstand and assorted bric-a-brac. Where did they buy all this stuff? "It comes in the door to us." If I hadn't had to cross the country by public transport, I'd now have a sugan chair in my kitchen.

Parking: (Pay) Multi-storey car-park, Maine Street; St John's Church. (Free) opposite the Brandon Hotel, Princes Quay; off Pembroke Street.

Lunchstop: Latchford's Wine Bar and Bistro, 4 Ashe Street; Brats Vegetarian Restaurant, 18 Milk Market Lane.

Hinterland Hint: Head for Dingle and more glorious shops.