MACNAS AND MAGIC

A bicycle seemed to be the essential adjunct for the Macnas parade - remembering from previous years the tendency for it all to disappear into a crowded side alley and, when you would emerge after hours spent clamped under a trainee juggler's armpit, the best bit had always happened somewhere else. But while it did come in handy, for standing on the pedals for a better view, there was no need to panic after all.

This year's parade, devised by Pete Sammon, the artistic director of community arts for Macnas, was called Spellbound With drummers, brass and samba accompaniment, it elaborated on the theme of the clash between good and evil, and proceeded in a sequential fashion from Prospect Hill through Shop Street and down to Dominic Street, with no splinter groups or wayward offshoots. So everyone stayed put and got to see the entire spectacle; once they had selected their viewing posts, which ranged from the top of bus shelters to third floor window sills and rooftops.

At the head of the procession, making a celebrity appearance after an absence of 10 years, was the huge, multicoloured Macnas dragon, which swayed and lurched to the beat of the Macnas samba drummers. Following closely came a group of exotic falcon headed stilt walking creatures, in rich turquoise and purple plumage. These represented the Egyptian god of knowledge, Horus.

Of the parade's 450 participants, one of the biggest hits with the crowd were the Green Men, in grass covered body suits, and their two zealous gardeners who kept drenching them - and everyone else - with water. Two princesses, played by Helen Gregg and Nolin Kavanagh, who also appear in this year's Macnas show, Rhymes From The Ancient Mariner, fought over a life size frog, whom they were attempting to transform into a prince. In the meantime they descended on innocent male bystanders, vigorously planting kisses on their lips.

Children from three local schools who are participating in a project run by Macleinn, the educational branch of Macnas, appeared as a host of ghouls who had been transformed by a voodoo witch doctor, played by the singer Jack L, complete with swirling coattails and a defiantly daemonic air.

"What's it all about, Mammy?" one child asked, and her mother was not in a rush to answer. In the early stages a lot of the spectators seemed a bit confused about which performers were meant to be the baddies - but as it progressed it became clearer since, inevitably, the evil forces were by far the more interesting.

The cluster of gargoyles made by Aisteori Oige na Taibhdhearc had real menace, terrifying the children along the route; the mad dogs who guarded the gates of hell were convincingly savage and the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse were eerily powerful.

BUT the witches' coven got by far the most audience response. This featured some of the festival's luminaries, such as Trish Forde, the former artistic director, Padraic Breathnach, co founder of Macnas and artist at large, journalist Judy Murphy and, as a beleagured white witch, the Galway Arts Officer, James Harrold. All the witches bantered constantly with the crowd - before pelting us with bits of shredded cabbage.

On the whole, however, the spectators' response was muted. Perhaps it was because the theme was not sufficiently celebratory; there lacked one dazzling, central creation, and at times it all became a bit piecemeal. Or maybe the people of Galway and its hinterland have - seen such wonders in the past - Gulliver, the Flood, and Manannan Mac Lir - that they expect miracles.

Rod Goodall, as the triumphant Prince of Darkness, had fantastic presence, casting spells, summoning smoke, flames and squirting jets of water. There was absolutely no contest here; evil won the day, as the thundery rain fell on the crammed streets, breaking the 10 year tradition of eternally sunny Macnas parades. Change was in the air.