Shades of leather and lace in London

If one trend is emerging from London Fashion Week for next winter, it is the roomier, slope-shouldered coat already being sported off the catwalks.

In navy with leather fasteners, it was the first statement at Christopher Kane’s show yesterday. Kane has had a successful year having sold a 51 per cent stake in his business to the global luxury giant PPR, and this show, a tour de force of ideas, craftwork and technical wizardry, gave full vent to the designer’s creative energies.

Combat gear

The abstracted camouflage prints used in kilts, strapless jackets – some fur-trimmed – and V-neck dresses made for new-look combat gear that was cool, modern and sexy.

Other dresses in spidery crochet or velvet slit with horizontal strips of lace, trimmed with tiny feathers or glinting with metallic embellishment displayed the elaborate handwork detailing, very much a feature of the show.

Kane was just one of the heavyweights out in force yesterday. Design supremos Peter Pilotto’s collection referenced Spanish renaissance artists, in particular El Greco.

That made for richly decorative red or amber coats and matador-style jackets, their shapes complemented by figure-hugging skirts in graphic prints. Flattering touches were the embroidered mini-capes that fluttered over block-printed shifts.

Burberry’s show, streamed live from Kensington Gardens, took to the animal kingdom for its leopard, cheetah, snake and giraffe prints that decorated the sleeves and capes of the classic trench. Valentine heart motifs appeared on dresses and knits, skirts were tight in papery leather, and the new rounded shoulder line was evident in black patent macs.

A standout item was a leather coat, its skirt decorated with tiny eyelet-studded leather flaps.

Zany fun

Not all shows were successful, but it was Louise Gray with her characteristic zaniness and brio that brightened the day.

Her millinery – ballooning plastic bags – mad sunglasses with false eyelashes and yellow heeled leather boots added to the fun of a seriously well tailored, textured collection.