GO WALK:With the west Cork peninsulas laid out below, it's easy to have a soft spot for Cork's Sugarloaf despite some sticky terrain, writes TONY DOTHERTY
WHILE I’VE climbed the Sugarloaf mountains of Wicklow (501m) and Waterford (633m) a number of times, I had, until recently, never got around to tackling Cork’s Sugarloaf (574m) which stands guard over the entrance to the Beara Peninsula near Glengarriff.
Apart from some fairly miserable terrain which didn’t entice, there were access problems which also dogged the section of the Beara Way which ran from Glengarriff to Adrigole on the eastern side of the mountain. The problem has now been solved, as this route has been abandoned and a new route created which runs from Coomerkane to Adrigole on the western side.
As the path rises to a col at a height of 510m it also provides easy access to the summit of Sugarloaf. And while the old route was rather boring this new route is now one of the more dramatic sections of the Beara Way.
To get the most satisfaction from the day, do the full route by leaving a car at either end. Start from the Adrigole side as the terrain up to the col is easier to ascend than descend. The path starts across the road from Adrigole National School running through woodland and farmland for half a kilometre until it comes out onto a third class road. At the cross roads ahead turn left and head uphill until you come to the trailhead.
The first section runs along a narrow farm track up to spot height 213m.
From here it’s simply a question of following a well-marked fence up across typical Beara terrain of rock outcrops interspersed with short boggy bits which can be slippery underfoot in wet weather.
Fence crossings are facilitated by fine metal styles. As you ascend the view of the great cooms of the Caha Mountains begin to open up, as does the view across Bantry Bay to the Sheep’s Head Peninsula. After the final stile on the fence the path drops down to Toberavanaha Lake and then on up to the col.
THE ROUTE FROM the col onto Sugarloaf is off the way-marked track and on rough ground which, like everywhere else on Beara, presents a significant navigation challenge if the mist is down.
Go towards the left side of the first slope where a sheep track will help you ascend. Keep as close to the top of the ridge as possible as you negotiate your way on grassy ground between the outcrops.
There is a significant col just before the final ascent which gives you a chance to look across and pick your route up to the peak.
A feature of the summit is that the trigonometrical pillar has been painted white. This has the rather pleasing effect of connecting the mountain top to the coastal environment over which it presides with its many white beacons and lighthouses.
As sugarloaf is steep on three sides you get almost an aerial view of the coastline from Glengarriff to Berehaven and, with a mountainscape stretching from Hungry Hill away towards the Reeks behind and with the west Cork peninsulas laid out in front, you’ll undoubtedly be mesmerised.
Retrace your steps to the col and head down into Coomerkane by the new track which has been cut all the way to the road. Once over the stile on to the road turn right and head downhill for 600 metres to the clearing by the bridge.
Having tasted all three Sugarloafs, I can say, without any bias at all, that the Cork Sugarloaf is the sweetest of them all.
MAPOrdnance Survey Discovery Series. Sheet 84 and 85.
STARTAdrigole National School (grid reference 811 506, sheet 84).
FINISHSmall clearing next to a bridge on the Coomarkane River, 5km west of Glengarriff (grid reference 888 558, sheet 85).
HOW TO GET THEREFollow the R572 (Castletownbere road) from Glengarriff until its junction with the R574 (Healy Pass road). The school is 200m up the R574. For the finishing point, follow the R572 (Castletownbere road) as far as the 60Km speed limit sign. Turn right on to a third class road (signposted for the Beara Way). Going left at the fork 4km along the road will bring you to the clearing where there is room for a few cars. There is no parking space further up the road.
TIMESeven hours.
DISTANCE15km.
TOTAL ASCENT620m.
SUITABILITYThe route is hard so you will need to bring a compass, map and rain gear.
FOOD/ACCOMMODATIONGlengarriff, Adrigole, Castletownbere.