Reputation, not reality

After dark warnings from his Italian uncle, It took ROSS FARRELL 20 years to summon up the courage to visit Naples – but he’s…

After dark warnings from his Italian uncle, It took ROSS FARRELL20 years to summon up the courage to visit Naples – but he's delighted he did

IT HAS TO BE said, Naples gets a bad rap. On numerous visits as a child to Italy to enjoy the hospitality (and cooking) of my Italian uncle he would swear blindly whenever we suggested taking a trip down the coast from Rome to Naples: “Pompeii, si, Napoli, mai! (never!)”. And the reason given was always it was too dangerous a city. My uncle’s orders must have been well heard as it took me over 20 years to summon up the courage to visit this Italian conundrum, and needless to say I did not tell my uncle until after I made it safely back to Rome.

My first introduction to Naples was Piazza Garibaldi, the train station underneath Napoli Centrale, and to my amazement there were no scenes of grannies getting their handbags stolen by thugs on scooters, just an interesting spectacle. I descended from the underground train at the aforementioned station and watched in amazement as all the passengers alighting at the same stop proceeded to cross the railway tracks to the main platform despite all the warning signs to the contrary. I thought these people really have no respect for their own safety, let alone the law. I then looked for the exit which involved walking all the way to the end of the platform, crossing a bridge and then walking all the way back up the main platform and so I thought these Neapolitans somehow have method in their madness.

Having wandered around the city which felt surprisingly safe, although I had just spent four months in South America and felt very safe there as well, I looked for a place to eat. The first restaurant I tried was not open, more than likely due to the fact that I was dining according to Irish custom at 6pm. I wandered a bit more and found a simple looking place tucked away in a corner off Piazza Dante. It was open and I enjoyed a very simple but tasty meal, as well as an informative chat with the friendly waiter.

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The following day I went on a day-trip to Reggia di Caserta, the Italian equivalent of Versailles, well known to Italian schoolgoers but not so much outside of Italy. It is located a short bus ride outside Naples. I had been told about it a few years before by an elderly Italian businessman I chatted to on a train from Turin to Rome. The place did not disappoint me. It was full of spectacularly decorated rooms that, for me, bettered the French palace, although Versailles probably wins out for its more impressive gardens.

Late that afternoon, I returned to Naples and discovered first-hand the true nature of the people of this city. Firstly, visiting the “Veiled Christ” statue in Sansevero church, the most stunning marble carving I have ever seen, bettering Michelangelo’s La Pietà in the Vatican, with the folds of the veil so delicately carved but yet almost tangible. I then visited the Vomero area of the city, high above, overlooking the famous bay. Leaving the funicular station, I was surprised to see a young guy on a scooter tearing down the footpath in my direction. He, however, was not doing this to mug me but seeing my astonishment slowed down, apologised and then sped off up the street. A nice gesture mixed with sheer lawlessness.

I wandered around the Vomero area trying to find a view of the gulf that did it justice but it seemed every apartment was blocking my view to benefit theirs. Finally I asked a postman and he very kindly guided me to a street with an excellent vista. But it was not totally satisfactory until I saw a rooftop terrace with awesome views and a lady enjoying them. She saw me with my camera and very kindly let me onto her terrace to get some terrific shots. Another nice gesture.

Naples is also worth visiting as it is a great gateway to one of Italy’s gems, the island of Capri, also known as the island of the sun. It did not disappoint, although the throngs of tourists did. I was lucky enough to have suitable weather conditions to enter the Blue Grotto, another spectacular tourist sight on the island, where the sun reflects through the watery cave entrance, creating some stunning blue hues. Beware of the hairy entrance and exit of the cave with the sea-level to rooftop gap of only about 4ft, depending on the swell of the sea.

Returning to Naples that evening, I decided to try my friendly simple restaurant of the first night. Again it was early by Italian standards – 5.45pm – and when I looked into the premises the lights were not on but the door was ajar. The kind waiter from my first visit was setting tables and when I asked was he open for business, he hesitated and then, I think remembering me from the first night, said they were always open, another friendly gesture from a Neapolitan local.

The following morning leaving the Belle Arti Resort hotel, a centrally located inexpensive hidden treasure, I reflected on my three days in Naples – no crime, no muggers, no mishaps, just charming, friendly people who bend the law as sometimes it just doesn’t seem to make any sense. Neapolitans are famous for being inventive, reputedly designing T-shirts with a black diagonal stripe when Italy introduced seatbelt laws. I have nothing but admiration for these people in a city that I found to be the closest equivalent in Europe to the Brazilian paradise of Rio de Janeiro.