On Beauty: It’s easy to spot the difference between adult acne treatments

It is just not fair. Most of us assumed we would leave spots behind in our teens, along with worries that the world might end before we get our first proper snog or, worse, that we might die a virgin. You might have sorted the romance bit out by now, but the acne part might be just beginning.

Adult acne is a common condition that affects both genders, but is more common in women, due largely to hormonal changes such as pregnancy perimenopause, menopause and coming off the pill.

Although it is not nice to have to deal with breakouts in your 40s, the positive part is that adult acne is very easy to treat, and often the cheaper products are the most effective.

Although our natural impulse when faced with a crop of spots is often to try to blast them into the stratosphere, it is important to steer clear of the caustic products aimed at the teenage acne market. They are far too harsh for anyone to use, particularly after 30, 40 or 50, as skin is often thinner and less oily as we age.

Cleansers and toners laden with alcohol might dry out the spot, but will also dehydrate the surrounding skin, meaning that these products are not a good solution.

Foaming cleansers will also often be far too harsh and will upset the pH balance of skin, so choose a good non-foaming face wash.

Choosing mild products is a good tip for anyone, even if you do not have acne.

Gentle cleansers such as Cetaphil (€14.99) and Simple Purifying Cleansing Lotion (€2.85) cream cleanser are ideal. Wash your face twice a day with warm water and use your hands to massage the cleanser in. Be gentle: you don't want to rub and scrub, but rather dissolve away dirt and grease. While you are at it, throw your scrubby exfoliator in the bin, as anything with "beads" or gritty "bits" in it, such as apricot kernels, will only aggravate.

Instead follow up your cleanse or face wash with a low-level salicylic or glycolic acid toner or chemical exfoliator. This will unclog pores, sweep away dead skin cells and won’t overdry or aggravate your skin.

Try Clarins Gentle Exfoliator Brightening Toner (€31), or, if you do not want to get into the palaver of using a separate toner, use something quick, such as Nip+Fab Glycolic Exfoliating Pads (€11.99).

Using a cleanser with salicylic, lactic or glycolic acid already included, such as Una Brennan Superfacialist Tea Flower Purifying Facial Wash (€11), might mean that you can dispense with toner altogether. Just watch out for cleansers that promise to "mattify" or control shine, as these are often loaded with alcohol or other drying agents.

If home methods have not produced the results you were hoping, for there is no need to despair. Dermatologists have a box of tricks at their disposal that will calm even the most stubborn acne.

From prescribed medicine to topical preparations, including retinol, or a course of laser or IPL to treat scar damage or particularly bad outbreaks, they will be able to provide a customised solution.

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beauty@irishtimes.com

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