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Grá Pizza takeaway review: Stunning sourdough pizza served from a converted horsebox

The dough is airy and beautifully mottled while the toppings are top tier

Grá Pizza: 'Our pizzas were being finished as we turned up at our allotted time slot'.
Grá Pizza
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Address: North Kildare Sports Club, Maynooth, Co Kildare
Telephone: N/A
Cuisine: Italian
Cost: €€

What’s on offer?

Ryan Lally developed a love for pizza after time spent living in Canada and New York. He bought a pizza oven when he came back to Maynooth and started experimenting with different doughs, using a sourdough starter and as much local grain as possible. He uses white and wholemeal flours from Gilchesters Organics in England, spelt and emmer from Oak Forest Mills in Kilkenny and multiple flours from Shipton Mills. The dough is fermented for two to four days before it is ready to use, depending on temperature, humidity and the variables that influence working with wild yeast. He bought a horsebox in June 2021, which he and his dad converted, and started trading as Grá Pizza in a local pub in Maynooth each Friday. Slowly realising that he needed a few more hands on deck, friends came on board to help and take orders. Further to that, he invested in a Valoriani wood-fired oven and cooks the pizzas at temperatures of 450 degrees. Orders are taken the previous day via Instagram page.

What did we order?

The porchetta special, the Seamus Heaney, the Flann O’Brien and a garlic dip.

How was the service?

Warm and chatty. Our pizzas were being finished as we turned up at our allotted time slot.

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Was the food nice?

These pizzas are very good. The dough, which is airy and beautifully mottled, has great flavour. The Wooded Pig chorizo and nduja bring a good kick of heat to the tomato sauce in the Seamus Heaney, with Toonsbridge mozzarella that is nicely melted and is topped with basil leaves and a flurry of Grana Padano. The Flann O’Brien has thinly sliced Ballymakenny potatoes that are charred from the heat, Knockmore white cheddar sauce, Toonsbridge mozzarella, caramelised onions and wild garlic. The special has fine slices of porchetta with flavours of fennel coming through in the pork which is nestled in melted cheese and tomatoes topped with wild garlic chimichurri.


What about the packaging?

Cardboard pizza boxes which are recyclable when clean.

What did it cost?

€44.50 for dinner for three people: The special, €14.50; the Seamus Heaney, €14; the Flann O’Brien, €14; and a garlic dip, €2.

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Where does it deliver?

Takeaway only, from North Kildare Sports Club in Maynooth every Friday, 4pm-9pm; and Celbridge Slip Hall every Saturday 3.30pm-8.30pm. Orders are taken through Instagram the previous day and day of trading. People are welcome to walk up but you’ll be taking your chances, they tend to sell out past 5pm.

Would I order it again?

This is amazing pizza, top tier, I will definitely be returning.

Corinna Hardgrave

Corinna Hardgrave

Corinna Hardgrave, a contributor to The Irish Times, writes a weekly restaurant column