For the ultimate luxury holiday, diving with whale sharks and rays in the translucent underwater paradise of the Maldives seems unlikely ever to be surpassed, writes ALAN BETSON
‘WHALE SHARK!” The shout went up after an hour or two of searching. We scrambled to don our masks and fins. There followed a lemming-like exit from the bow of the dive boat, leaving us to stare underwater in awe at a five-metre monster with grey and white polka dots. His gigantic tail effortlessly propelled him forward as we sprinted in chase, only wishing we hadn’t eaten so much of the fabulous boat lunch. When he decided he had had enough of us he gently accelerated and left us behind.
The Maldives is the stuff of dreams, easily one of the most spectacular dive holidays. Due to its remote location in the middle of the Indian Ocean, its 2,000 tiny palm-fringed white coral sand islands are surrounded by unspoilt turquoise seas. We snorkelled and dived pristine coral reefs teeming with iridescent sea life, home to many of the world’s most dramatic underwater residents, including the whale shark and manta ray.
About 100 resorts are scattered across the 100,000sq km archipelago, catering to everyone from backpackers to those seeking jaw-dropping five-star luxury. We stayed at the Conrad Rangali Island, at the top end of the scale. It offers honeymooners unforgettable beauty and romance; to the rich and famous it offers style, quality and luxury. To the scuba-diver it’s the ultimate package – outstanding diving coupled with an experience that will keep the rest of the family happy: indulgence, luxury and pampering beyond belief. As always, however, quality does not come cheap.
We only briefly carried our luggage once during the entire trip, a subtle luxury that one could easily get used to. Small but significant details made a big difference. We were escorted to private, air-conditioned transport on arrival at the airport, while guests of other resorts were crammed onto hot stuffy buses. At the seaplane base, where we waited to fly to the island, a masseuse kneaded and pummelled backs and shoulders, signalling the official start of stress relief. The 30-minute flight to Rangali was an adventure in itself. Soaring above powder-blue seas and sun-bleached white circular coral atolls, it kept our weary eyes wide open and focused, despite 20 hours of travel and a five-hour time difference.
Cool hand towels, smiling faces and fish skittering across translucent water greeted us on arrival at the island’s floating dock.
Our de luxe beach villa was breathtaking in size. It was so private that, despite our initial reservations, we could strip off and wander across the large private courtyard, complete with fountain, to the red sandstone outdoor shower, and large sunken bath under a coconut leaf pagoda. Floor-to-ceiling windows with one-touch electronic blinds opened to reveal a large jacuzzi pool secluded by tropical undergrowth from the beach, which was just a few steps away. If you don’t want your feet to touch land, then opt for a water villa on stilts, with direct access down steps to the sea.
Maldivian sunsets are a piece of daily magic not to be missed – best enjoyed sipping cocktails by the large infinity pool or dining over the floodlit water at the sunset grill. A surreal experience, where pink pastel-coloured skies fuse with the floodlit ocean. At your feet, the ocean is broken open sporadically by hungry predators chasing their fleeing prey, as candlelight and a balmy breeze set the ambience and tone. Other sunset options include ordering an evening of alfresco private dining on the beach overlooking the lagoon. Those with a more modest budget might simply combine the beach with the room service dining menu, depending on which side of the island your villa is facing. Either way, after the sunset prepare to be dazzled by the beautifully clear stellar display.
The house reef was simply amazing, covering hundreds of square metres. We spent time snorkelling face down in the water, zig-zagging out and back to the deep blue ocean drop-off. I nearly stood on a turtle while watching a passing white tip shark. Shy cuttlefish warily watched our every move before disappearing. Gigantic rainbow parrot fish crunched the unspoilt hard corals, and shoals of purple surgeon fish hardly bothered to get out of our way. Octopus, clownfish, snapper, and purple jack fish made each day’s visit to the reef different.
Whale sharks and mantas feature highly on the must-see lists of self-respecting scuba-divers. I found myself getting envious of the director of the Maldives Whale Shark Research Programme, Richard Rees, and his team members, who have, for the past four years, spent six months each year researching, tagging, recording and identifying the sharks. Based at and supported by the Conrad Rangali, they estimate there is a mostly juvenile resident population of about 130 whale sharks in the Maldives, so there is a high probability of seeing them all year round. This is unusual, as most whale sharks in the rest of the world follow a transient, seasonal pattern. Maldivian whale sharks average between five metres and 10m in length, but elsewhere they can grow up to 18m. They filter-feed on plankton, coral eggs and tiny fish. Working with the government and local communities, the team has made significant progress in the formation of regulations and the implementation of a long-term protection plan and, since June 5th, has succeeded in having areas of the Maldives declared protected sanctuaries.
Rangali is situated on the west side of the Maldives, and from October to March manta rays congregate at a cleaning station 15 minutes from the resort. There is a great chance of seeing these magical creatures over the course of a week’s diving. They then migrate towards the north and east coasts as the currents change for the rainy season, from April to September. Paradise Island, which is situated in the north, can sometimes have up to 50 mantas at a cleaning station during this period.
Matthias Hook, manager of the Rangali Sub Aqua Dive Centre, has seen them with wing spans of up to six metres. “Sometimes you think they know just how cool they are, wheeling around gliding over the heads of divers.” Despite desperately wanting to see one of these magnificent creatures, sadly it was not to be.
Honeymoon couple Brian and Susan Flood, from Raheny, Co Dublin, tantalised me with pictures of a manta that had, six days earlier, spent hours one evening playing in the floodlit waters of the islands’ interlinking causeway.
My only luck came on my second dive when a group of nine mobula rays – smaller cousins of the manta, with a wing span of about two metres – appeared out of the blue. Flapping their silver-lined wings in unison, the leader of the flying formation peeled off the front towards us for a look, then took up the rear, leaving us to gape in wonder as they gracefully melted back into the blue.
The first two dives of the full-day three-tank whale shark trip fulfilled my highest expectations. Kuda Rah Thila (Underwater Mountain) was teeming with life – shoals of blue stripe and yellow snapper, fusiliers, sweet lips, white tip reef shark, giant grouper, and moray eels. Maamigili Beyru (Whale Shark Point) produced the rays, turtles, stonefish, nudibranch and much more besides. Despite seeing lion fish, giant table coral and octopus, my last two dives were less spectacular. Low-season diver numbers probably dictated the dive boat to go for the quick and easy option. Another very popular option for the hardcore diver would be a “live aboard” dive boat. Standards range from basic but comfortable to bathrobe-and-slippers luxury.
Slowly we discovered the resort’s terrestrial hidden gems. The wine and cheese bar was an absolute treat. Sharee, the cheese master, made a selection to our particular taste from his massive collection of world cheeses. We scrunched our toes in the specially imported, silky black New Zealand sand underfoot. Sharee told us his one wish is to see a real live cow.
Another gem is the Ithaa restaurant, five metres below the surface of the sea. A 12cm-thick, translucent, curved ceiling affords diners stunning 180-degree views of turtles, sting rays, moray. Manta have on previous occasions joined the large shoals of fish that continuously dart overhead as the sun’s rays dance across the intimate dining interior. Divers clean the outside surface twice a day.
The culinary highlight of our week was a trip to the wine cellar, where resident sommelier Michael Arcena hand-picked wines to accompany a five-course gourmet dinner. Intimately seated around a large table with fellow guests, pop-up screens informed us as we sampled and blind-tasted our way around the world’s wines.
Overall it was the laid-back, unpretentious ambience, combined with friendly local staff and meticulous attention to detail that made it difficult for us to leave. Great food, tranquil beaches and deep massages induced a state of total relaxation. Six nights is just not long enough. We spent the entire time barefoot – white coral sand is used seamlessly, indoor and out. No other holiday will quite measure up to the dizzying standards set here.
** Alan Betson was a guest of Conrad Maldives Rangali Island
The costs, the accommodation, the food and the shark spotting
The cost
Twohigs Worldwide Holidays (01-6480800, www.twohigs.com) is offering seven nights at the Conrad Maldives Rangali Island in a beach villa on a BB basis from €3,479 per person sharing, including taxes. Price includes flights from Dublin with Qatar Airways via London and Doha, seven nights’ accommodation and return seaplane transfers. (Half-board supplement is available at a cost of €54 per person per day. Price valid for travel between August 10th and December 17th.)
Accommodation
The de luxe beach villa is divine. An upgrade to a Water Villa costs $100 (about €70) per night extra. Or go for the presidential sunset suite with private infinity pool and butler. If the electronically rotating circular bed doesn’t set you spinning, then the $5,000-per-night (€3,600) price tag low season, rising to $8,000 (€5,750) peak season, is sure to.
Eating out
Lunch at Ithaa restaurant is $180 (€130) per person plus a 10 per cent service charge. It is worth it and is most visually impressive during the daytime.
Dinner at Ithaa is $280 (€200) per person plus 10 per cent. Incredible menu.
A five-course gourmet dinner with wine at the Wine Cellar is $280 per person plus 10 per cent. Once in a lifetime, it really is worth it.
Half-board guests get 25 per cent reduction dining at the above.
Shark spotting
A half-day whale shark snorkelling excursion costs $325 (€230) per person (no guarantees are given but there’s a very good chance of seeing whale sharks all year round). Boat diving costs $74 (€53) per dive plus $31 (€22) per day for equipment rental. There are various other diving courses available. Some savings can be made by booking at www. subaqua-divecenter.com
Before you go
If you want to learn to dive before you go:
In Dún Laoghaire, www.oceandivers.ie offers an open-water diver course for €650, over five days or one evening a week for six weeks.
In Renvyle, Co Galway, www.scubadivewest.com, based in Killary harbour, offers open-water diver course for €600, as a five-day course or over two weekends (one of which would be a bank holiday).
The Irish Underwater Council, www.cft.ie, has links to diving clubs. Training usually starts in September and runs through the winter.