The stunning Loop Head in  Co Clare. Photograph: Valerie O’Sullivan

Clare: An insider’s guide to food, drink, activities and walks

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From the Cliffs of Moher to Loop Head and the Burren, this county has plenty to offer

Many years ago, in my first job in travel, I guided a bus group of Italian tourists to the Cliffs of Moher, which had been advertised as “the most spectacular cliffs in Europe”. Irish weather being what it is, by the time we got there the area was wrapped in a tight blanket of fog and visibility was reduced to almost nothing. One of them was so angry that he blamed me for the weather and suggested I owed him a refund on his holiday.

Thankfully, modern expectations are more easily managed with mobile weather apps, but the cliffs are one of Europe’s five-star attractions for a reason. It’s not so much their height – even if at 214m they are huge – but the sheer breadth of them, a rolling wall of rock stretched out along the coast while the roiling Atlantic crashes against the foot of them.

The 20km Doolin to Liscannor trail is signposted along the length of the cliffs. To the north, the 8km Doolin trail takes you past the 19th-century O'Brien's Tower (cliffsofmoher.ie; the photo ops from the rooftop platform are spectacular) all the way to Doolin, but the preferred way to do it is in reverse; if you like, you can join an organised walk run by local guide and farmer Pat Sweeney (doolincliffwalk.com; €10), who gives great insights into local history and botany along the way.

His walks start outside O'Connor's Pub in Fisherstreet; pick up a picnic at Anthony's (doolininn.ie), which opened in 2020. You can also tuck into its superb local produce in the hidden garden.

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Beyond the Moher Wall, the walk continues south beyond Hag's Head, which has wonderful views as well as the remains of an old Napoleonic tower and a dramatic sea arch. Keep walking and 7km later you'll end up in Liscannor, which is a short hop from Clare's premiere seaside resort, Lahinch.

One of Ireland’s top surf spots, you can pack up for a day at the beach from Hugo’s Deli (9 Kettle Street) or check out the Gourmet Food Truck at the back of Frawley’s pub on Kettle Street, which serves authentic Mexican tacos (the pub serves a creamy pint). And for your chippy needs, look no further than Spooney’s on the sea front.

There are plenty of guided walks for a tour of the Burren, Co Clare
There are plenty of guided walks for a tour of the Burren, Co Clare
Take a guided walk along the Cliffs of Moher trail.
Take a guided walk along the Cliffs of Moher trail.

If you want to discover the nutritious benefits of different kinds of plants and seaweeds, join Oonagh O'Dwyer on one of her two-hour foraging walks (wildkitchen.ie), which transforms the local landscapes into the shelves of a supermarket, such is the rich variety of goodies on offer.

Wild Kitchen is part of the Burren EcoTourism Network (BEN; burren.ie), a network of more than 60 local businesses who have come together to promote the region as a sustainable destination. These include local food producers such as the Market House in nearby Ennistimon, which is also where you'll find Pot Duggans (potduggans.com), where ex-Little Fox chef Ahley Gribbens serves Middle Eastern mezze to be enjoyed on outdoor picnic benches overlooking the river.

South of Lahinch, beyond the musical pleasures of Miltown Malbay, are Clare's other cliffs, stretching down as far as the peninsula of Loop Head: the scenic route that starts just south of Carrigaholt and runs through the village Rhinevilla and on to the lighthouse at the point, is one of the most spectacular drives along the Wild Atlantic Way.

Loop Head’s main town is Kilkee, which has a beautiful beach.
Loop Head’s main town is Kilkee, which has a beautiful beach.
Kayaking on Lough Derg, Co Clare.
Kayaking on Lough Derg, Co Clare.

Loop Head's main town is Kilkee, which has a beautiful beach every bit as popular as the one at Lahinch (be sure to grab a "hot and steamy Italian stallion" from the Espresso Bar at the pier, or just a regular coffee from the Diamond Rocks cafe). From here, there's a lovely cliff walk along St George's Head. South of the bay, there's a natural amphitheatre at Duggerna Rocks where you'll find the Pollock Holes – perfect for swimming in.

Most of northern Clare is taken up by the moonlike landscapes of the Burren. This is a walker's paradise, and most of the stark, beautiful landscape is crisscrossed by trails, some of which are thousands of years old while others were built as part of Famine relief work. The Burren Way stretches 123km from Lahinch to Corofin, but there are also seven waymarked trails of varying lengths in the national park (burrennationalpark.ie). You can download a map from the site or you could put yourself in someone else's hands – there are a bunch of local walk operators, including Burren Wild Tours (discoverballyvaughan.com) and Heart of Burren Walks (heartofburrenwalks.com).

Thanks in part to the collaborative efforts of BEN, the Burren is full of local producers. Highly recommended is artisanal chocolatier Hazel Mountain Chocolate in Oughtmama, near New Quay; make a booking to watch the chocolate being made or pick up some chocolate-styled dishes from its organic café: how about a grilled halloumi and chocolate and plum chutney toastie?

For some tasty fresh seafood, Julia's Lobster Truck parks up in Bellharbour on Friday and Saturday before shifting to Ballyvaughan on Sunday – the lobster rolls are divine.

The county town, Ennis, is a trad music hub, with most pubs featuring live sessions. The elegant four-star Old Ground Hotel has recently added an outdoor dining area called the Poet’s Garden, after the famous Poet’s Corner bar in the hotel. Just outside of town in Quin, Malachy’s Bar has transformed its outdoor space with the addition of a coffee hatch and a real pizza oven – they’re also running a farmers’ market on the third Sunday of every month for the summer.

East Clare gets very little attention compared to the coast and the Burren, but most of it abuts on to the western shores of Lough Derg, which is a destination unto itself. In Killaloe, you can go kayaking on the lake with My Next Adventure (mynextadventure.ie) – paddling under the stunning 13-arch stone bridge – or have a more sedate lake experience with Lough Derg Boat Tours (loughdergboattours.com). And if you fancy a hike, the 15km trek from Twomilegate up to the top of Moylussa, the county's highest peak, brings the reward of some stunning views. There are some equally beautiful walks overlooking the lake around Ogonnelloe.

Fionn Davenport

Fionn Davenport

Fionn Davenport, a contributor to The Irish Times, is a travel writer