Of all the vegetables that speak about the reality of the seasons in Ireland, peas and broad beans must be the top two. We imagine all things green arrive in spring, which begins, need I remind you, in February. Nothing much green grows in February in Ireland, unless it's in the cabbage family. Though cabbage doesn't exactly taste of spring.
I've yet to see an Irish pea or broad bean this year. Niall Burke of Burke's Fruit and Veg in Galway tells me everything in running behind this year. Is it just Galway and the west of Ireland? Last week at Airfield Estate, in Dublin, where Food on the Edge's relocation for this year was announced, the weather was extraordinary. If you haven't been to this urban farm, I urge you to go. Not only do they have their own cows and chickens, but they grow a variety of vegetables, including trials of lentils, wheat, and barley. Their little microclimate offers them the ability to grow things, such as grapes, that are difficult to grow elsewhere in Ireland.
Broad beans, peas and sheep’s yogurt
Broad beans and peas need next-to-no cooking. All they need is a little love. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil. Blanch the broad beans for one minute, then plunge them into ice cold water. This will stop the cooking process immediately. Do the same with the podded peas.
When both are cold, peel the broad beans. This is important, as they have a rubbery outer layer. Peas do not have to be peeled unless you working in Noma and are pursuing a third Michelin star. A peeled pea is a beautiful thing but only if you have six children helping you.
Dress the peeled broad beans and peas with a little extra virgin olive oil. If you like, look for a flavoured one. I tried a smoked olive oil recently from Castillo de Canena that was outstanding. Your little green salad will need some acidity, so add a dash of vinegar of your choice, perhaps a nice sherry vinegar. Finish the lot with a dollop of sheep’s yogurt, flaky sea salt and some green herbs.
