Arts renaissance in Iran, where criticism is expressed in metaphors

Art market took off under Ahmadinejad; and Rouhani has eased conditions

The figure of Mohammad Mossadegh, the prime minister of Iran who was overthrown by the CIA and MI6 in 1953, continues to haunt Iran, as in this painting by Farideh Lashai. Photograph: Nazanin Paykar-Ara

The figure of Mohammad Mossadegh, the prime minister of Iran who was overthrown by the CIA and MI6 in 1953, continues to haunt Iran, as in this painting by Farideh Lashai. Photograph: Nazanin Paykar-Ara

Wed, Jun 25, 2014, 01:00

A tall, ravishing brunette with a superior air, drenched in Chanel 5, greets visitors to a gallery opening in north Tehran. Women flaunt their long tresses, wear stilettos and show their legs. Men and women shake hands, even kiss one another in greeting.

One might find the same crowd in London, Paris or New York – all cities which hosted Iranian exhibitions this past year. The art is “threaded through with human drama and composed of work that is both cosmopolitan and like no other art”, the New York Times critic wrote.

Tehran’s flourishing arts scene is a reminder that many westernised, upper middle-class Iranians have stayed – or returned – through 35 years of Islamic revolution.

“Iranians love their country regardless of who is in power,” says Nazanin Paykar-Ara (34), a professional photographer of contemporary art. “I have a British passport, so I can live anywhere I want to, but I would rather stay here . . . These artists create because it’s difficult. This Islamic period is an amazing part of our history. I want to see what is going to happen.”

Safe art

Affluent Iranians flock to the vernissages every Friday afternoon. Most galleries show safe, decorative abstract art, still lifes or calligraphy. But close to one third of an estimated 150 galleries show socially and politically charged art, says Aria Kasaei, who designs a monthly guide.

There are several explanations for what is being called a renaissance in Iranian arts. “The number of arts faculties has increased from five to 30 in 15 years,” says gallery owner, art professor and painter Rozita Sharaf Jahan.

Ironically, the art market took off under the previous, repressive president Mahmoud Ahmadinejad. Big banks like Pasargad began buying up art as an investment, and for the prestige of being patrons. Members of government, the families of clergy and the nouveau riche class that sprang up since the 1979 revolution joined in the trend.

“Art is a passport to the sophisticated class,” says Ali Baktiari, a curator of contemporary Iranian art who works in Tehran, Dubai, Europe and the US. “If you want to hang out with poets or writers, they don’t accept you easily. If you say, ‘I’m a collector of contemporary art’, it opens doors.”

Alireza Sami Azar, the former director of Iran’s museum of contemporary art, encouraged Christie’s, Sotheby’s and Bonhams to auction Iranian art in Dubai. Last month, an auction at Tehran’s Azadi Hotel was a resounding success, with canvases fetching hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Under current president Hassan Rouhani, conditions have eased. Publishers that were banned, the arts institute and cinema guild have all reopened over the past year. Listing his accomplishments on the first anniversary of his election, Rouhani said, “In the arts sector, one sees joy and movement.”

Yet much of the arts community continues to struggle for authorisations from the ministry of culture and Islamic guidance. Bahman Ghobadi’s banned film Persian Cats told of the tribulations of an independent rock group trying to organise a concert. Granaz Moussavi recounts a similar tale about the theatrical milieu in My Tehran for Sale.

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