Tall ship revives old connections and makes mighty sight in Killala Bay

Had John Joe Humbert himself been on Kilcummin Strand, there could not have been more excitement. Even the force six north-westerly and sweeping Atlantic rollers could not keep the boats out of Killala Bay.

Capt Jorge Omar Godoy has sailed thousands of miles and berthed in many of the world's finest ports, but this landfall the Argentinian skipper would not forget.

The tall ship came in on full sail, at 12 knots without engine, after an exhilarating transatlantic passage driven by westerly winds. A flotilla of fishing boats, skiffs, motor cruisers and inflatables escorted it to its anchorage. The tips of the Libertad's five masts could be seen back down south of Killala, and in the village there was talk of the "mighty sight".

For Capt Godoy it was an emotional occasion. Not just because of the Argentinian links with Mayo. Not just because of the high esteem in which the navy holds its founder, Admiral William or "Guillermo" Brown. Not even because of the historical significance, thanks to a French general, of Kilcummin Strand itself. Capt Godoy was a 22-year-old midshipman when he made his first visit to Ireland. He was on the Libertad, and it was exactly 30 years ago.

Speaking in his cabin, as a four-metre swell pummelled the ship's hull on the shallow anchorage and conditions proved to be too rough to allow the public on board, Capt Godoy recalled the "warmth and friendship" of Irish families back then. The 103-metre sail trainer had berthed in Dublin.

"I don't remember too much about the city, but I remember the families who took us into their homes. I will never forget this moment. I have a lot of photos, taken with my classmates. I never thought then I would be coming back as captain of the ship." This weekend's welcome in Killala had been unexpected, he said.

The night before, he had been whisked over to Bessie's pub in Kilcummin, where he was presented with a pint of lager, a crystal bowl and was "treated like a king".

"King" is a significant surname on this voyage, which was planned to take in both the forthcoming Tall Ships Festival in Dublin and Foxford's special tribute to Admiral Brown. Sgt Maj John King, also from Mayo, was a captain in Brown's fleet during the 1800s. As part of the Foxford Admiral Brown Society's programme, the Libertad crew unveiled a plaque to him in Newport village at the weekend.

"You know, Brown is as famous in our country as San Martin," Capt Godoy said, glancing at the portrait of the Foxford man on his cabin wall and comparing him to Argentina's national hero. Jose de San Martin (1778-1850) was soldier and statesman who participated in the struggle of Buenos Aires against the Spanish and also contributed to the liberation of neighbouring Chile. He had Irish connections, for he fought in two battles alongside Bernardo O'Higgins.

Brown, in Capt Godoy's view, was "the San Martin of the sea". The Irishman's exploits are familiar to every Argentinian child at school. "He is a symbol of our struggle for independence. He recognised the sea's importance, and knew that if you had control of it, you could control the land."

It is a legacy which Argentina has not chosen to ignore, for very practical and strategic reasons. "There are great similarities between this landscape and that of Patagonia, in our south," Capt Godoy continued, peeping out of a porthole at the deceptively benign north Mayo coastline, and watching two local fishermen hand-lining for mackerel. "Now that there are so few places to fish in the world, many countries are interested in the South Atlantic sea area, off Patagonia. One of our functions is to control those waters within our zone."

Training on the Libertad is an integral part of the career structure within the Argentinian navy, but the ship also has a wider political role. Among the 300 crew, mainly cadets, are representatives from each of the security forces. "We take graduated officers from the army, airforce, coastguard, police and the foreign affairs ministry, because it is important that they also understand the sea."

Understanding the north Mayo accent ("very clear", said a relieved captain) was the main challenge over the weekend, as the Spanish-speaking crew took on the Ballina rugby team, and lost; watched a demonstration of Gaelic football and hurling; played a soccer match in Foxford; and heard about plans for a £1.5 million museum and interpretative centre, along with a Brown remembrance park. There was live music, and much interest in "elbow" (uileann) pipes in local hostelries, including Hennigan's Bar.

Unfortunately, strong winds precluded any public trips to the ship at anchor, although this reporter's boarding was accommodated by Martin Shovelin of the Civil Defence, and Patrick Breslin and Dermot Reilly of Reilly's Hope.

Small boats took hardy stomachs on a circumnavigation of the vessel, while volunteers with the Irish Marine Emergency Service maintained a continuous presence.

The shadow of the Omagh bomb fell here as everywhere. Among the hundreds of visitors were many Northerners, spending the last few days of summer holidays in the west. "There are people out there who want to smash everything," a Tyrone man said.

Although there were fears that he would not be able to make it because of yesterday's emergency Cabinet meeting, the Minister for Defence, Mr Smith, did attend. He officiated at a wreath-laying at Admiral Brown's bust, along with the Argentinian ambassador to Ireland, Mr Victor Beauge. This morning, the Libertad sets sail on a north-about course. It is due in Dublin port in three days.