A reader walks into a bar . . .

Sir, – Una Mullally's "Irish restaurants have lost the plot" (Opinion & Analysis, October 5th) seemed to roundly condemn pretty much any menu composition ever, whether ripped off from a recently opened London restaurant or "traditional Irish" (pasta, curry, steak, pizza, you name it).

Good piece, I thought, until she aroused rage in my inner hipster with this line: “It’s pretty laughable that new bars immediately focus on gimmicky IPAs when we make the best beer in the world right here in our capital city.”

If Una wants to pull on the green jersey and champion an “Irish beer” over Johnny Foreigner’s offerings I think she might be a little misguided in choosing a beer that derives from a London style (porter), is owned by a multinational behemoth (Diageo) and is arguably not even the beer it used to be any more, given it’s now pasteurised and served at teeth-crackingly low temperatures in comparison with the days of yore. – Yours, etc,

RORY QUINN,

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Clontarf,

Dublin 3.