A small brown ceramic wall plaque bearing a tree symbol is to be seen outside certain hostelries and eating establishments in west Waterford. It denotes membership of a project aimed at developing the economy of the region around the concept of quality in food. The symbol assures the customer that the premises has been assessed and graded under a regional scheme which takes account of freshness of food, meal quality, value for money, and standards of service.
The West Waterford Good Food Tree, introduced this year, seeks to raise standards and to give the area a name for good eating. It tries to involve the growers and processors of the area's natural foods with local chefs and proprietors.
The broad aim of the scheme is to stimulate local development in west Waterford. The food business has the potential to create growth at several levels, from producer to consumer.
But developing a quality food programme in west Waterford will be far from simple. The promoters, the Waterford Development Partnership and Bord Bia, have taken on virgin territory. The region abounds in outstanding unspoiled landscape, from the Comeraghs through the Nire valley to the sea, but the concept of excellence in food requires intervention beyond nature.
As a local innkeeper remarks: "There are plenty of places providing a basic food service, such as steak or burgers and chips. To supply the growing public demand for quality eating and service, however, requires more time, thought, investment and effort." It requires, clearly, a commitment to a broad training programme in all aspects of food preparation and presentation. This is one of the central aspects of the Good Food Tree scheme.
If the scheme succeeds it will raise the profile of the region and enhance its attraction to visitors, but will also open the door to financial assistance for the of restaurants, under the EU Leader programme.
Co-ordinating the project, Waterford Development Partnership will continue the assessment process annually and introduce training programmes.
With Bord Bia, it has organised a number of seminars at which the range of local fresh produce was displayed and its uses demonstrated.
The Development Partnership has also produced a useful guide to food providers and food producers in the county.
With testing standards applied, it was inevitable that the applications of a number of establishments for inclusion in the scheme have been turned down, and some have opted out by choice. The select group deemed eligible to join have been included in a modest Guide to Good Eating in West Waterford, of which 3,000 copies have been distributed this year.
But it is hoped that over time the Good Food Tree symbol will increasingly be seen outside restaurants, hotels, bars and even bed-and-breakfast establishments in west Waterford as standards improve generally.
One of the founder members is Ken Buggy, formerly of the Old Presbytery restaurant in Kinsale, who now runs the traditional Glencairn Inn on the banks of the Blackwater, three miles from Lismore.
He sees great potential in the idea of forging links between the local producers of fresh produce and the restaurant proprietors, and he believes it will encourage the emergence of more suppliers and more varied local produce.