Return of the trouser suit one catwalk talking point

ON DAY two of Paris fashion week already certain trends are evident on the catwalk echoing those in London, like the return of the trouser suit, the mix of sheer with opaque and a near universal use of white.

Yesterday, however, two female designers, both proudly independent, took very different approaches to summer dressing in their collections.

Anne Demeulemeester, known for working almost exclusively in black and white and for deceptively nonchalant looks, staged her show in the former 15th century refectory of the Convent des Cordeliers, a favourite location of hers.

This time, however, its dark interior and sepulchral atmosphere seemed to infect the clothes, which were long and sweeping and worn by white-faced models with gelled manes marching to a crescendo of church organ music. Black dresses had floor-length trailing sleeves, flying panels and leather strapped bodices which gave the whole collection a medieval air that was sombre rather than sunny.

Some short jackets had rear slits revealing racer back tops and worn with shorts and black opaques were a new twist on familiar city gear, but metallic purple trouser suits and long sleeveless coats in silver or purple gave a jolt of modernity to an otherwise rather monastic lineup.

Around the corner at the Sorbonne, Sharon Wauchob, who gave birth to her second child, Thea, two months ago, sent out a collection that was light in spirit with airy, featherweight silk chiffons alongside summery white wools and hot orange and pink prints. There was a lot of fluidity and movement; chiffon dresses had delicate origami-style slits and white tuxedos flyaway accordion pleats.

Laces were particularly lovely and used in a sexy, feminine way. Delicate black floral lace dresses floated over sheer trousers and more virginal styles in white lingerie lace looked furtively tied at the back, contrived detailing being very much her hallmark. “I wanted [the collection] to be modern and urban,” she said backstage, holding her three-year-old daughter, Erin. “I like exploring the juxtaposition between masculine and feminine but not being too extreme.”