In the culinary world, there are basically two types of people. There are those for whom the dessert is the highpoint of any meal, and who will spend any amount of time preparing a grand finale to dinner. For these people, that magical fix of sugar is the only way to bring true closure to a meal. And then there are those - and I am among them - who profess to being somewhat indifferent about desserts, who will say that we are maybe happier with a piece of cheese, or that we'll have a glass of sweet muscat on its own. And we claim to rarely make desserts at home
But the truth of the matter is that the folk in the second camp - those like me - are really kidding ourselves. For, confronted by a brilliant dessert, we not only succumb to its charms, we then become perfect dessert bores, liable to rhapsodise about the chocolate and mint souffle eaten at Eden all those years ago, or Neven Maguire's incredible creme caramel with muscat-soaked sultanas, or Jeannie Rankin's caramel creme brulee with rhubarb compote.
The truth of the matter is that we are just playing hard to get. But, when we are hooked, we are hooked big time. And here are two desserts from two brilliant cooks which will hook you big-time.
When I ate Cath Gradwell's astonishing grilled pineapple with chilli syrup, it felt as if I was mainlining sugar. The sheer physical impact of this dish is unbelievable. Grilling the pineapple concentrates the sugars to an almost explosive degree, a culinary potency which the chilli syrup merely accentuates. The sticky rice almost cools things down. Almost.
Gradwell cooks with a dazzlingly light touch in Belfast's lovely Alden's restaurant and is one of the coming stars of the North. Her food is beautifully balanced, and usually restrained. But her desserts throw caution to the wind, and here is a classic for your sweet repertoire.
Over on the west coast of the north, just across the border in Donegal, Brid McCartney and Noreen Lynch cook in The Corncrake, an abidingly simple single-room restaurant, just down the hill from the square in Carndonagh. A friend who had dinner there recently, and who tried Noreen and Brid's Orange Panacotta, declared that she would walk all the way back to Carn just to eat this masterpiece once again. My friend lives in Dublin.
This is a great dessert, combining the ruthlessly efficient hit of orange with a delectable custard. Like Cath Gradwell's dessert, it simply takes no prisoners. And that is what great dessert cookery should be about. You profess indifference. You say you aren't interested. You play hard to get. And then you get swept off your feet with a viciously passionate seduction.
Cath Gradwell's grilled pineapple with sticky rice and chilli syrup
Chilli Syrup:
Juice of 1/2 a lime Juice of 1 lemon
1 stalk of lemon grass (finely sliced)
1/4 chilli (birdseye) finely sliced
1 stem coriander
1 pinch of salted black beans
50g sugar
1 lime leaf
500ml water
Place all ingredients in a pan and bring to the boil. Turn down to simmer and reduce to a golden brown syrup. Pass through a strainer and allow to cool.
Sticky Rice:
100g sushi rice
200ml coconut milk
2 teaspoons caster sugar
pinch salt
juice of 1 lime
2 teaspoons roughly chopped coriander
Wash the rice until the water becomes clear. Put the rice in a small pan with the coconut milk, salt and sugar. Cover the pan with a lid. Bring to the boil over a moderate heat. Stir the rice and turn down to below simmer. Keep the pan covered and allow the steam created to cook the rice. Stir occasionally. The rice should take about 15 minutes to cook. Once the rice is cooked, finish with the lime juice and roughly chopped coriander.
To assemble the dish: Allow two slices of fresh pineapple per person (2cm thick). Get a ridged griddle pan very hot. Lightly oil the pineapple and grill on both sides.
Press some of the rice into a lightly oiled ramekin (or similar dish) and then turn out on to a plate to give a nice shape. Arrange the grilled pineapple around the rice and drizzle the chilli syrup over the rice and around. Garnish with sprigs of coriander.
Corncrake Orange Panna Cotta
Caramel:
4oz caster sugar
2 tablespoons water
1 1/2 tablespoons orange juice
Orange Cream:
3/4 pint cream
2 large oranges
2 free range eggs
3 free range egg yolks
3oz caster sugar
9 fl oz fresh orange juice
2 tablespoons brandy
To make the caramel, dissolve sugar over a gentle heat. When completely dissolved, raise the heat and simmer until it becomes a rich brown colour. Remove from heat, add orange juice. Divide caramel between six large ramekins or teacups. Allow to set.
To make the orange cream: Zest the oranges with the finest side of the grater. Juice the oranges and make up to 9oz. You may need another orange. Add the eggs and yolks to the caster sugar and mix well. Add the juice, zest and brandy to this.
Heat the cream to just below boiling point and add to the egg mixture. Pour into the ramekins. Place in a bain marie with simmering water. Bake in a cool oven for one and a quarter hours (300F/150 C/Gas 2). Cool and then chill for at least two hours. (They will keep well, covered in the fridge, for three to four days). Unmould and garnish with orange segments.
Alden's, 229 Upper Newtownards Road, Belfast (08-01232-650079)
The Corncrake, Carndonagh, Co Donegal (077-74534)