How to be a buddy to your bosom

You wouldn’t go running in ill-fitting shoes, yet many women don’t wear the right bra for their size and shape

‘YOU WOULDN’T go out on a hockey pitch in high heels, so why would you go out in a bra that doesn’t offer support?” It sounds logical, yet many women wear ill-fitting, inappropriate bras when playing sports, walking or running.

Laura Gleeson has been fitting women for years and believes many don’t know the basics when it comes to buying the correct bra for their shape and size. “Getting a good bra that supports the muscles of the breast is important for all women, but especially young girls if they don’t want to end up with droopy boobs in later life,” she says.

But when does a girl start wearing a bra? It’s a delicate issue, if the row that blew up over department stores selling padded bras to very young girls is anything to go by.

Arnotts’ team of 12 full-time fitters in Dublin is among the busiest in the bust measuring and fitting business. Their buyer, Jenny Erwin, says that as soon as girls start to bud and become self-conscious, it is a good idea to come in and get measured.

“White cotton for starters is the best option and definitely not underwire, as these stop the proper development of girls. It’s a daunting experience going for a fitting at this age and push-up bras for six, seven and eight-year-olds are totally inappropriate.”

Underwire bras are not good for girls aged between 12 and 20, says Gleeson. “It’s hard to get 16-year-olds not to wear underwire bras, but they should keep these for when they’re going out and keep to non-wire for school.”

Gleeson says there are four aspects to bra fitting. The chest band should be at the same level front and back, and the tension should allow two fingers under the band comfortably. Each breast should fit fully into the cup without wrinkles or overspill. The three hook settings at the back should be at the widest to start with, because as the bra stretches the hook and eye can be adjusted inwards. Lastly, straps should not slip off or dig in.

“You should check your straps every time you put on a bra, as washing can affect the fit and hormonal changes can increase the breasts by a full size.”

Gleeson has recently started offering fittings for sports bras in schools. “One games teacher told us a student in an important tennis match kept holding her chest,” she says. The teacher discovered she was wearing a strapless bra, which gave no support at all. “It’s important to go out ready to attack the opposition without worrying about your straps falling or boobs bouncing all over the place.”

For those engaging in sports, bouncing breasts are quite literally a pain and, if not supported properly, they can lead to shoulder, back and neck pain. There are bras for different sports depending on where you need support: at the sides or underneath.

“Many female athletes regard a well-fitting bra as being as important as their running shoes,” says Dr Cian O’Neill, course director of the BSc in physical education at the University of Limerick.

“There is no one perfect model but there are two basic types of bras: compression for the not too large, which keeps the breast close to the central trunk, and encapsulation, which keeps each breast as stable as possible.

“There isn’t a standard up-and-down bounce during exercise: it’s more a figure of eight. For aerobics, running and power-walking, there is constant pulling and dragging, which weakens the muscles of the breast because there is no skeletal support structure there.”

O’Neill says it is essential for athletes to have good breast support in terms of energy efficiency. “If they are running, they will have to land more heavily if they don’t have good support, so from a performance perspective increased effort is needed.”

The sports bra market is estimated to be worth $473 million (€342 million) in the US. It is growing here too. Dermot Quigley, who distributes Shock Absorber sports bras, says there has been a big increase in demand as people are more knowledgeable now. “Women are getting more involved in all sports, just as in America. The women’s mini marathon is huge here.”

Different activities cause the breasts to move in different ways, he says. “Whatever the activity, a correctly fitting supportive sports bra can minimise bounce by 78 per cent.”

A fitting is recommended every three months, says Erwin. “We recommend trying on different brands, as the French are tighter fitting than the British makes.”

IF THE CUP FITS: GETTING IT RIGHT

* Band width: Make sure the chest band is the same height at the front and back. You should fit two fingers comfortably under the band. Raise your arms above your head and watch that the band does not rise up.

* Cup size: Each breast should sit correctly into its own cup. There shouldn't be wrinkles or overspill. Where one breast is bigger than the other, go with the bigger fitting.

* Hook:The hook at the back should be at the widest setting to begin with. As the bra loses elasticity, you can move the hook in a notch. The exception is teenagers who will need to loosen the hook as they grow.

* Straps: These should be comfortable and not slip off or dig in to your shoulder. The correct setting will comfortably accommodate two fingers under the strap.