Bikini at 50

RIGHT from the start it was itsy bitsy and teeny weeny, even if the very first example didn't sport any yellow polka dots

RIGHT from the start it was itsy bitsy and teeny weeny, even if the very first example didn't sport any yellow polka dots. The bikini, that staple of the summer wardrobe, will be 50 years old next month and liked all classic clothing, it has changed remarkably little over successive decades. Back in July 1946, a French civil engineer called Louis Reard unveiled his new creation, a two piece swimsuit he named the bikini because the first post war atomic bomb had been detonated a few days earlier in the Pacific Ocean's Bikini Atoll.

As Monsieur Reard obviously realised, the bikini's effect was equally explosive. Immediately denounced as indecent (even though its prototype can be seen in a number of Roman mosaics from the first centuries AD), the outfit only gradually won widespread support from women.

Ten years after Louis Reard's presentation, Brigitte Bardot was photographed on the beach at Cannes wearing a bikini but even as late as 1957 Modern Girl magazine could write: "It is hardly necessary to waste words over the so called bikini, since it is inconceivable that any girl with tact and decency would ever wear such a thing."

With the release of Brian Hyland's memorable song (Itsy Bitsy, etc), the early 1960s saw the bikini win over a devoted following, knot least among men who saw Ursula Andress rise from the waves wearing a white two piece in Dr No, and One Million Years BC's Raquel Welch clad only in a fur covered example as she battled against dinosaurs. By the time Barbara Windsor burst out of her top in 1972's Carry On Camping, the bikini was no longer considered risque. In fact, in an era of topless bathing, it started to seem quaintly old fashioned, particularly as briefs became progressively briefer until they became tangas - little more than a sliver of fabric to meet the demands of modesty.

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Nor were the 1980s especially kind to the bikini, because the introduction of Lycra and other stretch fabrics encouraged greater sales of one piece swimsuits which could sculpt the lines of a body. Louis Reard's invention started to look outmoded and even unflattering on the majority of women. But now that trend in turn appears to have reversed. The present decade's obsession with nostalgia makes the bikini's current anniversary perfectly timed. Design houses such as Dolce & Gabbana and Chanel have produced their own versions of the item for summer 1996 and it looks as though the bikini will recapture its lost following over the next few months.

What characterises the present crop of bikinis is precisely that return to the original styling of the 1940s, aided by a few contemporary tricks such as subtle underwiring in the bra. But the lower piece is often more expansive than used to be the case, extending down the thigh like a pair of shorts. Undoubtedly the most popular style this season, this gives a sporty quality to bikinis. Favourite style for tops is a halter neck. For women who prefer not to expose quite so much of themselves, some designs come with little matching a line skirts that can be slipped on when swimming isn't a priority. For still greater cover, a generous wrap can be tied around the hips or, as part of the 1970s revival, a caftan worn over the bikini will look absolutely right. Whatever the choice, you can be confident that this 50 year old is ageing remarkably well.