Don't mind if I do

Everyone says Mmmmmm, delicious, yum-yum, have a slice of this, try a sliver of that, don't mind if I do, thank you

Everyone says Mmmmmm, delicious, yum-yum, have a slice of this, try a sliver of that, don't mind if I do, thank you. The launch of John and Sally McKenna's Guide to Irish Food has to be a mouth-watering affair.

A phalanx of white-coated chefs and bakers from all corners of Ireland stands waiting, ready to feed the masses, proffering their products - organic bread, cured ham, smoked mussels and cheeses to beat the band. These cooks are right at the cutting edge, says an excited John McKenna, beaming at the display of food on offer. Wife Sally stands by, keeping a watch on their children, Connie (6), Sam (4) and one-year old PJ.

McKenna says he doesn't put on weight because of all "the worry and the hard work". The profession of food writer is a lonely calling, he insists, sitting there evening after evening in glorious isolation ordering his half a bottle of wine and reading the menu. We nod in sympathy.

Tony and Alicia Chettle, who met in Singapore and moved to Skibbereen over five years ago, are there showing off their range of organic products. "Food has always been our main interest," says Alicia, who gave up a career in advertising in Toyko to live in west Cork.

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Frank Hederman, from Cobh, is "the father, son and holy ghost of smoked salmon - he's an icon," says an enthusiastic McKenna. A not-at-all bashful Hederman grins from ear to ear, lapping up the praise. But he points out that his father, Paddy, who is manning the fort back home, is the real boss - "Il capo di tutti capi," he says.

Hugh Robson and daughter Sarah from the Burren are there with a range of organic meats. Clare Mooney from Ashbourne is there to offer foodaholics who pass by her stall some of her organic bread. "Nobody was doing bread so we decided we'd have a go," she says.