Value for money: Cream cheese

This week, Value for Money compares four varieties of soft cheese

Paysan Breton Luxury Creamy Cheese

€2.99 for 150g, €19.93 per kg

The French know a thing or two about cheese and much of the expertise is clearly on display in this packet of “luxury creamy cheese”. It has a fresh flavour with a pleasingly sharp edge to it. Its texture is very smooth and it is made with top quality sea salt from Guerande. That might be one of its downsides and it could be a little too salty for some tastes. We reckon the biggest problem is going to be availability. We found it in Fallon & Byrne on Dublin’s Wicklow St.

Verdict: Nice but scarce

* * *

Philadelphia Cheese Original

€2.29 for 225g, €10.17 per kg

You can’t really review cream cheeses without including this brand — it’s the Hoover or Tayto of the cream cheese world. Given its longevity on the market and its almost universal familiarity, we assumed it would be on top of – or at least close to – the top of the cheese pile. We were wrong. It is bland and dry and, compared to the lesser known products, tastes of virtually nothing except, maybe, a chalky butter. It’s pretty damn good in a cheesecake, mind you.

Verdict: Dry and bland

* *

Marks & Spencer Soft Cheese

€1.19 for 150g, €7.93 per kg

It’s not often we get to say M&S has the cheapest product on trial but on this occasion we can. Truth be told, this is what we expected the more famous cheese from Philadelphia to taste like. It is creamy, smooth and sharp and absolutely fine without being particularly outstanding. It is nowhere near as thickly set as some of the other cheeses and makes a good base for dips. The serving suggestion on the box (smear it on a cracker) is hilariously unimaginative.

Verdict: Great value

* * * *

Boursin Light

€2.99 for 125g, €23.29 per kg

Ah Boursin, how we love your garlicky creaminess, at least in the full fat option. This lighter deal is not so good however and it verges on dullness. The regular Boursin’s beautifully herbiness seems to have gotten lost in the mix in this alternative. This cheese contains 78 per cent less fat than normal Boursin - which is of course a good thing – but we reckon you’d be better off buying the original and eating 78 per cent less of it. It is also ridiculously expensive.

Verdict: Disappointing, dull and dear

* *