WHEN Sean and Francoise Gilley instructed a friend in South Africa to forage on their behalf and she came up with Cape Safari Pinotage Reserve (£5.99) they couldn't believe their luck. It's a lush concentration of juicy, mouth filling, red fruits, super smooth with slightly earthy, smoky notes adding to its interest. Oz Clarke was rhapsodic when Terroirs supplied it for his book launch last October. It could excite the same enthusiasm at your Easter table or with a plate of steaming cassoulet some spring evening.