`We don't generally like red wines from very warm climates, such as Portugal's Douro Valley," the "dummies" authors write, "because they tend to be overly alcoholic . . . and to lack finesse."
But, but, but. Duas Quintas, Douro, 1995 (outlets above, usually £7.99) - from the old port house of Ramos-Pinto, now owned by Champagne Louis Roederer - wins their approval for its balance and restraint. And so it should.
The rich, plum-cake flavours are there, but they come along with delicious herbal notes, all wrapped in a supple, elegant body. A super wine at the price.