Nosh knows not everyone in Dalkey has a fat wallet, writes Tom Doorley
Nosh, in Dalkey, gives the impression of having been thought through. It's curious how many restaurants don't. You might think that, in a tough trading climate, restaurateurs would be desperate to shoehorn their outlets into niches, but no. Far too many appear just to have happened, as part of a catering big bang. And without the benefits of evolution.
Nosh seems to acknowledge that not all of Dalkey's residents have loads of loot burning through the linings of their designer pockets. It seems to have a kitchen that enjoys cooking and keeping it pretty simple. It knows that a big menu is often a bad sign, and it realises that people know how much wine costs in the real world. Above all, it seems to have a team who enjoy the restaurant business. Mind you, it was a sign of the times when my companion was able to book a table for 9pm by phoning at 6.30pm. There was a time, not very long ago, when that would have been a fool's errand.
Not everything about Nosh is perfect. My Thai seared-beef salad was very tasty and highly satisfactory in every way - unless you demand what have become known as Thai flavours: fresh coriander, lime juice and what have you. This combination of pink strips of beef with crunchy bean sprouts was spiced in much the same way as Singapore noodles are. But I was very happy, despite the lack of sharp freshness their name suggested.
Leek-and-brie tart was excellent: it had a crisp casing and an unctuously cheesy filling cut by the flavour and texture of young, pungent leeks. A spicy tomato relish was not wholly necessary - perhaps it looks a bit bald without it - but it was good.
For my main course I was startled to realise that the fillet beef tasted of beef. The average slice of meat these days has not been aged to develop flavour, and the unfortunate animal it comes from has generally met its maker well before it gets the bovine equivalent of its driving licence.
But this beef was good. The goodness started with a well-seasoned and pleasantly crusty exterior, and it carried on all the way through. Served with crisp battered onion rings, substantial chips - actually called chips on the menu: hooray! - and velvety Bearnaise sauce. This combination is hard to find in Irish restaurants, and well nigh impossible at €24.95.
Pan-fried Barbary duck was plentiful, perfectly pink and, thankfully, not raw in the middle; it was served simply, with a very buttery garlic mash and some soft, self-effacing roast fennel. A ginger-and-orange dressing supplied just enough sweetness without veering towards the dreaded marmalade effect.
A feather-light lemon-and-passion-fruit mousse actually tasted of passion fruit. Chocolate brownies with cookies and vanilla ice cream was the blowout that it sounds. A double espresso was first-class.
Fate being what it is, our visit all but coincided with the six-weekly change of menu, so by the time you read this much may have changed. What impresses me is that a regularly changing menu can push so many buttons so satisfactorily.
I suspect that it underlines, again, how the Nosh people understand their customers and are keen to please. The sense of enjoyment is palpable, but what I really enjoyed was the way the enjoyment seemed to start in the kitchen. Not many restaurants can claim that.
Including a bottle of South African red, mineral water and one double espresso, the bill came to €111.80 before service.
[ www.nosh.ie ]
WINE CHOICE A brilliant wine selection would be the icing on the cake, but this short list does have some pleasant choices. Our Fairview Pinotage (€27.50) was rich, ripe and long. Danzante Pinot Grigio (€24.50) comes in a pretty bottle and is just right for people who think this grape is the new Chardonnay. Wynns Riesling (€27.50) is a good, crisp Oz white. Domaine de Triennes Viognier (€29.50) is peachy and soft. Bouchard's Pouilly-Fuissé is ripe white Burgundy for €41.50. Château du Grand Moulas is a decent, chunky Côtes-du-Rhône for a keen €22.50. You can have Veuve Clicquot NV champagne for €75 or a Prosecco for €29.95.