SALMON IS THE king of fish, handsome, noble and delectable. At its best, there are few fish to rival it. I am not quite sure what kind of salmon we are supposed to be eating – wild salmon is an endangered species, while farmed is not supposed to be environmentally friendly.
It is certainly possible to buy very good examples of farmed salmon. It all depends on how and where it is farmed, and how fresh it is. The flavour and texture comes from the alternating layers of flesh and fat, visible as rings in a steak, and the fat in the belly flap. Too much fat and it will be oily, too little and it will be dry. Salmon remains one of the most popular fish to eat, and comes into its own during the summer months.
Like tuna, salmon is a half-way house between fish and meat. It has more flavour and body than other fish. We should therefore look to match it with bigger, more textured white wines, including those with a bit of oak. Crisp dry whites can taste a little thin. A touch of sweetness on the finish does not go amiss.
In fact the fatty but delicate flavours of salmon, particularly when served with a mild, buttery sauce, can provide the perfect backdrop for your very best white wines.
If you want your wine to shine, serve the salmon with as few adornments as possible. If the fish is to be the centre-piece (and it usually is) keep an eye on the accompaniments as much as the salmon.
Lighter, fresher red wines are also an option.
Smoked salmon and other starters
It may seem a cliche, and it may not seem in keeping with the current times, but really good Champagne is a brilliant match for smoked salmon. My own favourite is a Blanc de Blancs or maybe vintage, but any good Champagne will do. If the budget does not stretch quite that far, go for a new world sparkling wine (Jacob’s Creek sparkling, Green Point, Montana Lindauer Brut) rather than Prosecco. If you prefer a still wine, German Riesling (try a Kabinett or Spätlese) or a Pinot Gris will do very nicely.
Sauvignon, whether from Sancerre or Marlborough, is another option. The above also holds for tartar of salmon and salmon sushi, but beware of wasabi. It may be completely addictive, but it does nothing for wine.
Gravadlax is best with ice-cold aquavit, but any of the previous suggestions still apply. Lastly, do not forget the best aperitif of all: a chilled glass of tangy, dry Fino sherry works wonders for the salty, smoky salmon. Lighter, fresher red wines are also an option.
Poached salmon with hollandaise
This summer classic, served warm with hollandaise or cold with mayonnaise, gives you the perfect opportunity to bring out your finest white Burgundy. Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, Pouilly-Fuissé, or a really good quality Australian Chardonnay will all be at their glorious best. You could also consider a top Grand Cru Alsace Riesling, Chenin Blanc from the Loire, or Condrieu from the northern Rhône. If you are feeding a crowd, pretty well any Chardonnay will do. That big, broad, mouth-filling green fruit, with or without some spicy oak, works really well with the oiliness of salmon.
Oriental style with soy and ginger
A favourite in the Wilson household is a large fillet of salmon gently marinated in soy, toasted sesame oil and minced ginger and garlic. This is then baked in the oven. Those savoury flavours and mild spiciness work brilliantly with Austrian Grüner Veltliner (a great match for most salmon dishes) as well as fruity new world rosés and Pinot Noir. If you are serving salmon with a spicy oriental crust, then Pinot Noir becomes the best option to cope with the bolder flavours.
Grilled or barbecued
With plain grilled salmon, the same full-flavoured whites will do the trick. If you want to drink red wine with salmon look to Pinot Noir (new world in particular) or a deliciously light Cabernet Franc from the Loire valley. Both can be drunk cool. These can be served with most salmon dishes, but I love a glass of either with a grilled salmon steak accompanied by a light herby sauce. Barbecued salmon needs something more assertive: a red, or a big white such as Viognier or maybe a Sémillon.
Fish cakes
I prefer my fish cakes without salmon (crab is best of course), but they are a good way of using up left-over fish. Nothing too posh here, a rosé might be nice, as would an inexpensive Chardonnay.
WINES OF THE WEEK
Saint Véran Domaine Daniel Martine Barraud, 13%, €21. Expensive, but worth it for a blow-out lunch. Refined, balanced wine with an excellent concentration of rich apple fruits and spice overlaid with a touch of honey. Perfect with poached salmon. Stockists: Enowine, IFSC and Monkstown.
Grüner Veltliner Pfaffenberg 2007 Brandl, 12.5%, € 13.66. A deliciously fresh Grüner Vletliner with light ginger spice and real zip. It has the right combination of fruit and acidity to match most salmon dishes perfectly. Great price, too. Stockist: Wines Direct.
St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Roullières, Domaine Mabileau 2006, 13%, €16.75.
I have been known to drink disgraceful amounts of this wine, one of my favourites. Medium- to light-bodied, fresh summer fruits, with a touch of acidity. It needs food, but nothing too heavy; chicken and pork would do nicely, but it proved a brilliant partner for some baked salmon last week. Stockists: The Vintry, Rathgar; Redmond’s, Ranelagh; Loughrey’s, Tullamore; Cashel Wine Cellar, Cashel; 601 Off Licence, Kinsale; Next Door@Corcorans, New Ross; Searson’s, Monkstown.
Schloss Schönborn Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2005, Rheingau, 13%, €16.49. Lovely lifted honeyed nose that could only be Riesling; on the palate it is beginning to show some maturity, but still very lively with delicious luscious rounded peaches and honey that all comes together beautifully. Good with a plate of smoked salmon, or cold poached salmon. Stockist: O’Briens.
TWO AROUND €12
Miguel Torres Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2008, 14%, €11.75. Is it a red or is it a rosé? One of the most deeply coloured rosés you will find, but a great food wine with plenty of body, and rich strawberry and plum fruits. This would go nicely with Asian salmon dishes. Stockists: Donnybrook Fair; Gibney’s, Malahide; Cheers off-licences; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Molloy’s Liquor Stores; Copeswood Stores, Dalkey; McCabe’s Wines, Blackrock; Redmond’s, Ranelagh; Sweeney’s, Finglas; Holland’s off-licence, Bray.
Superquinn Classic Collection Red Burgundy 2007, 13%, €12. This is a really delicious fresh, light and piquant style of Burgundy, with stylish, elegant redcurrant and summer pudding fruits. Great value wine that should go down a treat with salmon. Stockist: Superquinn.
jwilson@irishtimes.com