ETHICAL TRAVELLER:
CATHERINE MACKon responsible tourism
A CAMPSITE where there are just a few tents in a luscious meadow, no cars, a breakfast buffet, and a shebeen on-site is a rare thing. Even rarer is it that reaching such a destination does not involve an overnight ferry crossing. Instead, just a two-hour crossing from Rosslare to Fishguard (stenaline.ie) and a 30km drive, or cycle, will take you to the gates of Fforest, one of Britain’s coolest campsites.
Fforest is situated outside the village of Cilgerran, in the heart of Wales’ beach and beauty-filled Pembrokeshire.
It gets better. All tents and equipment are provided at Fforest. These are no ordinary tents either: the choice includes funky, cream canvas geodesic dome tents, tipis, bell tents, as well as the more basic tunnel tent, known as the Nomad. All have wood-burning stoves except the Nomad. All accommodation also offers reindeer hides to snuggle under or, if skins don’t do it for you, gorgeous Welsh woollen blankets. A double duvet is provided in the dome tent. You do need to bring sleeping bags and towels, however.
All tents are positioned on raised wooden bases to keep damp at bay, and adjoining kitchens are covered and fully equipped. Even the shower blocks and loos are beautifully designed using green oak, larch and cedar, and effluent is channelled to a reed-bed filtration system.
We opted for Fforest’s latest development, the Crogloft. Originally a stone barn, it is now home to those who love the outdoors but can’t do canvas. I love canvas but it was April, so we chickened out and opted for solid walls and doors. The four croglofts are equally stylish, with cabin beds for the children and a mezzanine-level bed for us, all draped with Fforest blankets. The sofa was decked with yet another reindeer skin.
The luxurious wetrooms are heaven for those who hate to wade through nature when nature calls. You still get the camping vibe in the crogloft, however, because the kitchen areas are outside – covered from the elements, but in full view of the meadows, moon and stars.
Despite the cosiness of the croglofts, I still pined for woodsmoke and fresh air. I got my daily fix of wood-burning in the sauna, which is in a cedar barrel, heated by a wood stove, with a shower round the back for cooling down. The kids were delighted as they got to come in too – usually a no-no in spas. But then, most spas don’t have a field full of buttercups to run through afterwards either.
The space at Fforest is impressive, with only a handful of tents in each field, each one strategically positioned for privacy. There are just enough people in each field to be sociable, but you never feel crowded out. If you feel like socialising, you can head to the main wooden lodge for a delicious breakfast buffet, with endless pots of good coffee, home-made breads, eggs and fresh local produce, such as jams and honey.
The communal breakfast gave everyone a focus for the day, whereas we never seem to get going before midday on normal campsites.
Although you could easily come here and just do nothing, activities abound at Fforest. I recommend the canoe trip down the river, as well as the woodland creations sessions, when the boys made pencils out of green hazel wood, cut in the forest, and necklaces of elder.
Fforest owners James Lynch and Sian Tucker have avoided the current trend for designed-to-death campsites which kill the very thing we all want from the outdoors: spontaneity, fun, nature – and dirt under the fingernails.
They are offering a 10 per cent discount on holidays completed by August 28th for Irish Times readers who book by phone. Just mention the promotion when you call.
For more details, see coldatnight.co.uk, or tel 00-44-1239 623633
- ethicaltraveller.net, twitter.com/catherinemack