Go Walk: Tony Dohertyfollows an exhilarating route up Cappagh Glen and on to Kerry's distinctive Beenaunmore
IF YOU INFORM somebody that you are off to climb a volcano, they will automatically assume that you are off to foreign parts, when in fact you may just be popping down to Co Kerry to climb Beenaunmore (454m). Extinct and well eroded this small peak may be, but it is none the less dramatic for all that.
The mountain is a distinctive feature on the sky line between Glenflesk and Killarney, wedged between the higher peaks of Crohane and Stoompa and flanked by two V-shaped glens.
Take the first turn left on the N22 west of Glenflesk. Two kilometres along you will come to the turn off for Lough Guitane. At the end of the lakeside road do not cross over the bridge but keep on the left-hand track. One of the gates across the track may be locked, in which case you should seek the permission of the farmer to continue.
There are two fords to be negotiated. These do not normally present a problem but be warned that during periods of heavy rain the river rises very quickly.
After the second ford there is a gate which leads on to open ground. Now the rocky bulk of Beenaunmore rises sheer in front of you. Continue up the zig-zag path at its base and when you reach the fence turn right and follow it down on to the floor of Cappagh Glen. Head upstream, keeping the river on your right-hand side.
The route up the glen is exhilarating as the river tumbles down in a series of cascades at the foot of which are clear rock pools; very enticing on a hot summer’s day. Some light scrambling is required on the jumble of large boulders that lie at the base of the steep slopes. As the valley widens out into a lakeless coom, you will need to cross the river at the point where the channel is narrow enough to take a leap. The floor of the coom is, unusually, beech woodland with rich grass and gently running streams; a sharp contrast to the towering cliffs around you.
The gully at the back of the coom is your next objective. Keep on the right-hand side of the stream but take a course about 25 metres above it. Again the ground opens out into another coom.
This appears to be lakeless too but if you attempt to cross its grassy floor you could find yourself up to your waist in water. It is best to contour around the right-hand side until you come to a stream where it is easy to cross. You can now start working up through the outcrops on the southern slopes of Beenaunmore to a spot height 357m.
From here it is a short hike up a heathery slope to the narrow summit ridge where you will get great views down into the valleys and out over Lough Guitane. Retrace your steps to the Spot Height and drop down the steep grassy slope to Lough Nabroda. As you follow the track along the east side of the lake, the volcanic nature of Beenaunmore becomes apparent. Above you are vertical columns of rock which have been described as Kerry's "Giant's Causeway". While Ulster's columns are hexagonal, the lava flows here solidified to form pentagonal pillars as is evidenced by fragments you'll find on the scree slopes.
The exit from the glen takes you down a gully through a grove of birch trees. Keep to the left of the stream and take care on the moss covered rocks. When you get to the edge of the woodland you'll rejoin your inward track.
Beenaunmore, Co Kerry
Map: Ordnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series. Sheet 79
Start and finish: Either at the turn off for the lakeside road or at the southeast corner of Lough Guitane.
How to get there: Take the first turn on the N22 west of Glenflesk. The turn off for Lough Guitane is two kilometres along, just past a white farmhouse. Either park on the road here or drive along the road to the southeast corner of the lake. This road is badly potholed at the moment.
Time: Approximately six hours.
Distance: 8.6km from southeast corner of lake.
Total ascent: 550m
Suitability: Route is moderate to hard. Experience of rough steep ground is necessary. There are tracks in the glens but navigation skills are needed for Beenaunmore itself. Compass, map and rain gear are essential. Gaiters are also helpful for crossing the fords.
Food and accommodation: Killarney, Co Kerry