After years of urban living, TANJA RAABdecided to try a change of pace in Thomastown, Co Kilkenny
DON’T TAKE MY word for it, as I’m only a blow-in, but Thomastown is fabulous. I moved to Ireland from Germany in my early 20s and lived in Dublin, with a few years in New York in the middle, for about a decade. Friends often ask if I miss city life. The honest answer is no.
Thomastown is set in the kind of landscape that Ireland is famous for: sweet-tempered hills divided by streams and punctuated by an occasional ruin. The town dates back to about 1200, and in its 800-odd years has seen good times and bad, but not too much of the town has changed. It still has the layout and charm of a medieval walled village.
And what’s so amazing about it now? How about this: every Thursday David Ward manoeuvres into my driveway, his van filled to the brim with organic fruit, vegetables, cheese, oils, eggs, meats and juices. I climb in, pick out what I like and carry it into the house. My weekly shopping is in the bag, if you’ll excuse the pun; it’s a far cry from Tesco or Lidl.
The second most frequent question from friends who come visiting is: “Anything you need from the capital?” Despite the fact that we have only a handful of shops, I’m able to get things here that would have considerably worn down the soles of my shoes in Dublin (or New York, for that matter).
Harmony (Market Street, 056-7724555) takes care of anything related to health food, and Simon Treacy’s hardware store (Market Street, 056-7724291) is the best I’ve come across. If either shop doesn’t have something it will happily order it. Granted, if you need juniper berries in a hurry, you might have to bite the bullet and drive the 15 minutes to Kilkenny, but, hand on heart, how far would you normally have to travel to get them for your roast-pork marinade?
There is a downside to this country living. Thomastown doesn’t have a huge array of restaurants. The ones it has are great, however, and have so far fulfilled any of my culinary desires.
I recommend that you begin a tour of the town at Ethos, which serves an uncomplicated choice of dishes, all of which are honest and always tasty – no pretentious tall food here.
Coming out of Ethos, have a quick look in Clay Creations, next door, where you will be able to watch Bríd Lyons make one of her unique ceramic sculptures.
Should you find yourself with some spare time during the day, seek out the cosy Watergarden cafe, where you may sit all day over a tea or coffee. As a mother of two lively children I appreciate that the cafe has large gardens where they can dig up worms while I read the papers.
All of it run is by Camphill, a community formed of groups of people, some with special needs or disabilities, who live, work and learn together.
For the kids there’s also a playground beside the library and Thomastown Community Kindergarten (www.steiner ireland.org/thomastown) – also a good meeting place for parents new to the area.
Then there is Thomastown’s thriving community of artists, writers and musicians, which is well out of proportion to the town’s 1,700 inhabitants. Thomastown has an abundance of clay sculptors, potters and glass makers, jewellery and hat designers and people who make chocolate, cheese, candles – you name it – all within a 10km radius. This is without mentioning the cornucopia of musicians scattered about: Pól Brennan of Clannad, Iarla Ó Lionáird, Mick Hanley, Lisa Hannigan’s drummer Tom Osander and the U2 collaborator Dawn Kenny are among those who have made their homes in or around Thomastown.
If it’s dancing you’re after, look no farther than Cleveland Mike. I have seen this DJ in action on more than one night, and I have yet to experience an empty dance floor. I wish I could tell you where to find him on a given night, but he won’t be tied down. Steer yourself towards the fullest bar and there’s a good chance you’ll find him.
Should that not be your cup of tea, try the Bridge Brook Arms (087-2986897, www.bridgebrookarms.com), on the far side of the River Nore, where you may find anything from a poetry reading to a full play or live music. It pulled down the big screen for the inauguration of Barack Obama; Barry O’Reilly, the proprietor, was busy outside grilling complimentary cheeseburgers and corn on the cob for anyone willing to take a plate.
Try also Carroll’s Bar (Logan Street, 056-7724273, www. carrollsbar.com) or Murphy’s (Low Street, 056-7724160) for live music. There are numerous other places for fun and frolics: just follow the stream of people pub-crawling most nights and they’ll take you there.
For daylight delights, try Tara Antiques (Market Street, 056-7754077, www.tara antiques.ie). Even if it isn’t a thrill to discover a wardrobe that dates back to a time when we didn’t know the United States existed, the pieces are so stunning that I, who once furnished an entire apartment out of skips, was contemplating buying a dresser here, arguing for it as an investment.
One of the better-kept secrets (until now, at least) is Grennan Mill Craft School (www. kilkennyvec.ie) , on the way out of town. Should you be lucky enough to be coming through while the graduates hold their end-of-year show, make sure to pay a visit. Not only is the building itself worth a look, but it is also a great opportunity to pick up some reasonably priced one-off ceramics.
And if you’re not afraid to venture a few kilometres farther, you might like to stop by Bassetts at Woodstock (056- 7758820, www.bassetts.ie), in Inistioge. Next door to the breathtaking Woodstock Gardens, it serves a taster menu every Saturday evening: nine delicious starter-size courses prepared from mostly local ingredients. (The restaurant raises its own pigs, which makes for some seriously flavoursome rashers.)
Drive out of town the other way, towards Waterford, and just past the entrance to Mount Juliet you will find the left turn for Jerpoint Glass, which has been a local institution for more than 30 years. It’s a family-run business that not only produces stunning pieces but also has a gallery above the showrooms where you will find exhibitions, including sought-after paintings by one of the daughters of the house, Roisin Leadbetter.
Having said all that, if you really must go to Dublin – and people commute daily – the train or bus will take you there in a couple of hours. They will also bring you here, of course, and you can find out about all the things I wasn’t allowed to mention.
Where to stay, eat and go to get a taste of Thomastown life
Where to stay
Ballyduff House. Thomastown, 056-7758488, www.ballyduffhouse.com. Ballyduff House, built in 1760, is set in large parklands overlooking the River Nore. The rooms have been individually furnished, some with four-poster beds, to maintain the feel of an old-style family home.
Abbey House. Jerpoint, Thomastown, 056-7724166, www.abbeyhousejerpoint.com. Friends who stayed there describe it as warm and friendly, with authentic decor and great showers. Opposite Jerpoint Abbey.
Mount Juliet Hotel and Spa. Thomastown.
Hotel and equestrian centre 056-7773000, golf reservations 056-7773064, spa 056-7773016; www.mountjuliet.ie.
Where to eat
Ethos. Low Street, Thomastown, 056-7754945, www.ethosbistro.com.
Bassetts at Woodstock. Woodstock Gardens, Inistioge, 056-7758820, www.bassetts.ie.
Watergarden Cafe. Ladywell, Thomastown, 056-7724690, www.camphill.ie.
Where to go
River Nore Valley Walk. This is a tranquil walk along the Nore, some of which is on the road but most of which is right next to the water. It will bring you all the way to Inistioge. If that doesn't tire you, follow the path through Inistioge and continue on the same side of the river to end up in Woodstock Gardens. I have never been able to walk the whole thing in one piece, but I would recommend planning the best part of a day for it if you don't want to be rushed. One word of warning: don't attempt this walk if there has been very heavy rain, as parts of the path may be flooded.
Woodstock Gardens Arboretum. Inistioge, www.woodstock.ie. Restorations are ongoing, which means there's a new feature almost every time I visit. Highlights include an avenue of monkey-puzzle trees, walled kitchen gardens, a rose walk, a bamboo gazebo, a rock garden with grotto, a glasshouse with coffee shop and hectares of woods
Camphill Community Thomastown/Jerpoint. 056-7754132, www.camphill.ie. This Camphill community houses about 20 residents in two large houses set around a community hall, vegetable gardens and paddocks.
Jerpoint Abbey. Thomastown, 056-7724623, www.heritageireland.ie. This 12th-century abbey, two kilometres outside Thomastown, is regarded as one of the most important Cistercian ruins in Ireland.
Jerpoint Glass. Stoneyford, 056-7724350, www.jerpoint glass.com. A local institution for more than 30 years.
You can look around its gallery, which shows art, as well as seeing how its glass is made and browsing its showrooms.