Go Overnight

Fiona McCann visits the Landmark Hotel, Carrick-on-Shannon

Fiona McCannvisits the Landmark Hotel, Carrick-on-Shannon

THE LANDMARK HOTEL, as its name suggests, is pretty hard to miss, located as it is on the Dublin to Sligo road, overlooking the river in the bustling town of Carrick-on- Shannon. There have been some changes in its nine-year existence, the most recent being a refurbishment that has transformed the lobby, bar and ballroom, with plans under way for the bridal suite and restaurant.

Much of the change is aimed at the lucrative wedding market, and you can see why the Landmark might attract the nuptially inclined. As well as the river and boardwalk backdrop for photo opportunities, there's a private upper lobby where the happy couple can take a breath or a moment with family before joining their celebrating throng, as well as a sleek, primary-coloured pre-function area for guests to enjoy cocktails before the meal. A wedding was taking place during our stay at the Landmark; a flower girl darted through the lobby to warn me in hushed tones not to even attempt to enter the Upper Lobby, which was, she reminded me with winning reverence, "for the bride only".

All this as we checked in at the warm-toned reception area, with its collection of bright duck paintings that were, after some scrutiny from a three-year-old companion, given a thumbs up.

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The ducks extended up the wide wooden staircase to our first-floor bedroom, which featured pretty views of the river and, for a modern hotel room, a rare abundance of space. Despite its size, however, the layout lacked imagination and seemed wrong for the space, leaving the sleeping area as an alcove afterthought rather than the main event. The room was well appointed, and the ample bed was comfortable, but, oddly, you have to leave its warmth to turn off the lights, and neither of the room's two televisions is fully visible from the bed.

Wi-Fi, available throughout the first floor free of charge - it's on the way for the rest of the hotel - and a well-lit meeting table made for an excellent working environment.

The real star of the Landmark, however, is its restaurant, CJ's, whose unexpected culinary delights could make the hotel a destination in itself. Our bouches were most amused by the sundry entertainments on offer, with a mushroom- and-truffle-oil risotto the kind of mouth-watering joy that more than made up for a badly placed light switch in the bedroom. Deserts by Japanese executive pastry chef Masuda San were impossible to forgo, leaving us barely room for the cocktails planned for afterwards.

Unfortunately for midweek residents, CJ's is open only on Friday and Saturday evenings, with food served the rest of the week in the more boldly decorated Boardwalk Cafe. Lunches and afternoon teas are also available in the the bright and airy Aromas Cafe.

If you feel up to a postprandial tipple, your options include the brash Boardwalk Bar. On a Saturday night it was buzzing with young people on their way, presumably, to the nightclub next door. Preferring a cosier environment, we chose to finish our evening in the Black Mint bar, above it, where soft seating, forgiving lighting and a loungier feel were far more to our taste, though some of the noise still filtered up to us.

Breakfast the following morning, hotly anticipated after the evening's delights, was adequate, though the onslaught of hungover wedding guests at 10.29am did not help the otherwise excellent service.

The absence of a spa or sauna meant we couldn't completely deurbanise, though good food and wine and a brisk walk along the pretty boardwalk across the road certainly assisted.

It's clear the international expertise brought to this endeavour by the hotel's owners, brothers Ciaran and John Kelly, goes a long way towards making lodging at the Landmark a pleasant experience, though there is still some way to go before their ambitions are entirely achieved.

With plans afoot to refurbish the bedrooms and offer luxury spa treatments for those requiring further pampering, though, it's a space worth watching for city bolters and wedding planners alike.

Where:The Landmark Hotel, Carrick-on-Shannon, Co Leitrim, 071-9622222, www.thelandmarkhotel.com.

WhatFour-star hotel overlooking the River Shannon.

Rooms60 en-suite rooms, smoking and non-smoking, with complimentary Wi-Fi on the first floor.

Best rates:Autumn midweek special of €125 per person sharing for bed, breakfast and evening meal. Other rates from €75 per person sharing midweek; weekend rate of €190 per person for two nights' bed and breakfast.

Restaurants and bar:CJ's restaurant is open Friday and Saturday nights; residents eat at the Boardwalk Cafe during the week. Aromas Cafe, open all day, serves afternoon tea from 3pm to 5pm.

Access:The Landmark has one dedicated room for people with disabilities and three wheelchair-accessible rooms with low baths.

Amenities:Refurbished ballroom and pre-function area; bridal party reception room. Light exercise equipment is available for guests to use in their rooms, as well as putting mats.