YVONNE JUDGEvisits the Soho Grand in New York
‘HOW VERY Bohemian of you,” dead-panned my friend Owen on hearing of the Craigslist house-swap plans that we thought would let us stay frugally in New York. What’s the worst that can happen, I reasoned: we have to check into a luxury hotel for some plumped-up pillows and tiny chocolates. And that is exactly what happened. Only we got jelly beans.
To cut a long story short, our New York house, on the lower Lower East Side, was rather smaller than advertised, so after a few nights’ squirming in restricted accommodation we needed to move. The kindness of a friend, a trip to the Upper West Side (nice museums) and one ballsy New York mouse later, we were back in a yellow cab in downtown Manhattan.
It turned out that a birthday treat had been planned for the Soho Grand, so when I lifted the phone – as the Bernie Madoff of the rodent world sprinted into the guest bedroom – I was only moving our booking forward by a day or two. They do birthday-treat rates at the Grand, you know, among others.
As we piled out of the cab in front of the hotel two young goateed men, in sheepskin-lined black hussar-style jackets, took our many and varied bags with unquestioning smiles and swept us up the industrial-chic staircase to reception. To our right the groovy lounge was throbbing with Saturday-night music, a DJ on the decks.
Another smiling young man welcomed us at check-in. Had we had a good day today, he asked. Well, no, not exactly – and, boy, did we look it.
Soon we were slurping from two flutes and an upgrade was being organised. Pay attention here. A few months ago my Googling of the Soho Grand revealed rates of about $600 (€435) per night. We were now checking in for an average of $295 (€215) per night plus tax, and we were getting an upgrade. A few years ago I spent a good deal more to stay in a far inferior hotel not far away. God bless the euro and all that.
Nine floors later and our personal concierge admitted us to our corner room. Ahead of the gigantic fluffy-cloud bedding was a gleaming view of the Woolworth Building, with Robert De Niro’s Tribeca Film Festival HQ just across the street. And that was only from one window. From the other we looked towards the Hudson river and west SoHo.
More fluffy articles in the robe department, and a minibar trolley that included jelly beans, had us clapping our hands with glee.
For birthday fun we ordered room-service breakfast the following morning. (Extra. Very, very extra.) The scene was straight from a certain ad for orange juice: eggs Benedict, scrambled eggs on sourdough toast, endless coffee, the New York Times and big fluffy robes, taking in the great view and the big blue New York sky.
This is downtown. For nightlife and daytime strolling, go south. SoHo, TriBeCa, NoLIta: South of Houston Street, Triangle Below Canal, North of Little Italy. It’s all neighbourhood acronyms, meandering into each other as the grid system narrows.
The OK Harris gallery, on West Broadway, is one of the last relics of the Soho art scene. Most moved off to Chelsea when things got pricey, but you can still get some cool art from street traders at weekends.
The iron-framed buildings of turn-of-the-20th-century manufacturing houses now host fashion designers and coffee houses instead of sweatshops. Restaurants are everywhere; the Odeon, Public, Balthazar and Cipriani are at the trendier end, but – all hail the credit crunch – there are plenty of tables, and specials, too.
Canal Street is, as ever, a trove of knock-off handbags and, now, Obama T-shirts.
After all that walking and sensory indulgence, a bath back at the hotel is just the thing, with posh Malin+Goetz beauty accessories. The flat-screen TV has movies on demand, with DVDs available from the concierge. And that’s not all: apart from being a mine of information, they provide customised iPods and bicycles.
And here’s some information I wish I had known when we were checking in. “Complimentary pet goldfish upon request”.
I think I’ll have to go back for that.
WhereSoho Grand Hotel. 310 West Broadway, New York, 00-1-212-9653000, www.sohogrand.com.
WhatFive-star boutique hotel.
Rooms363, including penthouses lofts with roof decks.
Best ratesDoubles cost from $245 (€175) per night when booked online. Weekend, birthday, anniversary and Bloomingdale's offers also available.
Restaurant and barThe Gallery restaurant for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Grand Bar Lounge for drinks and bar food. The Yard for summer open-air drinks. Full room-service menu.
Child-friendlinessWith notice, rooms can be kitted out in a baby-friendly way, including with strollers and baby bathrobes. Grand Kids is a welcome pack for younger tourists. The hotel is also pet-friendly, so Bo Obama is welcome.
AccessRamps and elevators throughout.
AmenitiesBicycles, iPods, business floor, fitness centre, hair and beauty salon, concierge desk, GrandLife guide to hip New York.