GO CANADA: Taking a holiday on the Arctic frontier with temperatures falling below minus 20 might not at first seem an attractive option, but MATT COLAUTTIoffers 10 good reasons to visit the Canadian Yukon in winter
LET’S START WITH the chilling facts: the daily winter temperature in Whitehorse, the capital of Canada’s Yukon Territory, averages minus 22 degrees. Even to a Canadian that’s cold, and combined with five hours of daylight and two metres of snow, the Yukon doesn’t seem like the most ideal vacation spot. Yet this triangle of Arctic frontier perched atop British Columbia – home to twice as many moose as residents – contains some of the country’s most pristine wilderness. During the short summer you might think otherwise based on the highways crowded with campervans convoys. Winter offers a host of unique experiences only possible when the mercury dips. So throw on a toque, grab the latest Canada Goose down jacket, and come chill out in the great white north.
BE WOWED BY THE SKY
One of nature’s greatest shows, the appearance of the Northern Lights is like watching a painter’s brush passing across the enormous canvas of the night sky. The band of frequent aurora activity passes directly overhead of Whitehorse, and many operators can arrange a viewing outside the city limits complete with campfire and hot chocolate. The spectacle, however, remains free for anyone braving the cold who happens to look up.
SKI THE SAINT ELIAS LAKE TRAIL
The Unesco-listed Kluane National Park comprises the Canadian side of the largest collection of glaciers outside of the poles, as well as the country's highest peak. While you'll need a helicopter or ski-equipped plane to experience much of the remote park interior, there are numerous snowshoe and cross-country ski trails that provide a glimpse of the region's immensity. The St Elias Lake trail, an 8km round trip accessible from nearby Haines Junction, is a good place to start. See pc.gc.ca/pn-np/yt/kluane/index.aspx
WARM YOUR SOUL
One of the best ways to enjoy the cold is from the 40-degree waters of the Takhini Hot Pool. The mineral-rich water, percolating up from a faultline beneath the Boreal forest, has been enjoyed for its therapeutic qualities for more than one hundred years. The pool is open nightly until 10pm, but monthly late-night swims during the new moon offer particularly good views of the stars.
SCALE A WATERFALL
Popular around the world, ice climbing is winter's answer to rock climbing, albeit with less mercury and more gear. If it doesn't feel like you're overcoming winter with each hefty kick into the ice, it certainly will once you reach the top and look down at the frozen wall you've just ascended. Equinox Adventure Learning offers a one-day introduction course on waterfalls outside Whitehorse, including equipment, guides, and, when your arms seem to turn to jelly, an encouraging boost of the rope. See equinoxyukon.com/iceclimbing
DOG-SLED ACROSS LAKE LABERGE
There’s something iconic about bursting through the forest onto a frozen lake, surrounded by mountains, with no sounds but the crunch of the sled and the panting of the four dogs pulling you across the snow.
Numerous tour operators can arrange trips ranging from an afternoon to a week, and most will take you across Lake Laberge, immortalized in Yukon lore during the turn-of-the-century gold rush.
Though the controls are simple enough (brake and don’t brake), it is considerably more difficult to part with your dog team at the end of the trip (right).
ATTEMPT ARCTIC-SIZED PORTIONS
Grab a few friends to help you tackle one of the cinnamon buns at the Braeburn Lodge, they’re as heavy as a basketball and about the same size. A Yukon institution, the Braeburn Lodge is about 55 miles north of Whitehorse on the Klondike Highway and one of the stops on the annual 320km Yukon Quest sled-dog race. Wash the pastry down with a Spiced Winter Ale from the Yukon Brewery, which offers tours, samples, and more importantly, 2-litre refillable “growlers” of their award-winning brews.
See karo-ent.com/braeburnand yukonbeer.com
PLUNGE INTO NORTHERN POWDER
Being dropped at the top of an inaccessible mountain at the start of some 2,000m piste, with only untouched, powder snow as far as the eye can see, is the heli-ski dream that calls out to anyone who has ever donned a pair of skis. Canada's northernmost heli-ski operation, Klondike Heliskiing, owns exclusive ski rights to a parcel of the Coast Mountains the size of Bali and promises 32,000 vertical skiing metres during a week stay at their Atlin Lodge. See atlinheliski.com
DRIVE THE DEMPSTER
For a true, do-it-yourself excursion, head north on Canada’s premier adventure road, the Dempster Highway. Engineered across 750km of unstable taiga permafrost, the gravel highway crosses the Arctic Circle, the Continental Divide (three times) and the wintering territory of the 160,000-strong Pocupine Caribou Herd. For even more bragging rights, continue north for 200 km on the Mackenzie River Ice Road to Tuktoyaktuk and the frozen shores of the Arctic.
See yukoninfo.com/maps/dempster
CATCH DINNER
Sitting out in the cold, on ice up to a metre thick, and trying to land an Arctic Char for dinner may be a love-it or hate-it sort of experience. But add in a fire, hot drinks, and the heaviest parka you can borrow, and ice fishing becomes a relaxing afternoon regardless of your success with the reel. Several outfitters will provide all the equipment and permits, everything except the fish.
See upnorthadventures.com/yukon-winter-adventures/ yukon-ice-fishing/
ENJOY THE FRESH AIR
Black flies. Mosquitos. Horseflies. The roster of flying bugs instills fear into the hearts of all visitors to the Canadian wilderness. Bundling up for the cold, seeing your breathe in the crisp air, scraping the snow off a frozen windshield are all small sacrifices to make for a bug-free visit to the Yukon.
YUKON: Getting there
Whitehorse is the largest city and a good base to explore the territory. There are daily Air Canada/BMI itineraries from Dublin in the €1,000-€1,200 range, with connections in London and Vancouver.
WHEN TO GO
Winter activities can be enjoyed from November to April. Arguably the best time to go is March, when there is a good base of snow and the weather is beginning to warm up.
At this time of year, daylight hours in Whitehorse are about the same as in Dublin. Temperatures in the sun are very tolerable, but be sure to bring warm clothes. Many tour operators and hotels have extra parkas to loan.
WHERE TO STAY
The Inn on the Lake, listed by National Geographic Traveller, is one of the nicest places in the territory, with rooms starting at €140 per night. Along with hot tubs, a sauna, and winter visitor packages, the hotel brags Aurora viewing from your room ( innonthelake.ca). In the city, the Edgewater Hotel ( edgewaterhotelwhitehorse.com) and Whitehorse Hotel ( westmarkhotels.com/whitehorsehotel.php), at €90 per night, are usually top choices.
MORE INFORMATION
Tourism Yukon has helpful information and packages, both online and in-person at their visitor centre in Whitehorse ( travelyukon.com).