With access problems and traffic marring the southern Burren Way, savvy walkers now use Ballyvaughan as a centre from which to complete the green road, writes John G O'Dwyer
TWO STRETCHES of the Irish coastline shout loudest for the print of trekking boots.
Antrim's Causeway Coast is a walker's delight of black and white sea cliffs, tranquil harbours, ancient ruins and panoramic views. Here a fully accessible coastal path attracts walkers from far and wide and repays its upkeep handsomely in terms of local visitor spend.
South of the border the king of coastlines undoubtedly extends from Lahinch to Fanore, in Co Clare, taking in Hag's Head, the Cliffs of Moher and the rocky and cave-strewn shoreline north of Doolin.
Sadly, this unique meeting of karst, cliff, sea and sky provides little reward for the local economy. Access problems have put paid to much of the route, forcing walkers to tiptoe inland on grimly purposeful back roads where the monotony is broken only occasionally by life-threatening excursions on to busy, bus-filled highways.
Small wonder that savvy walkers now eschew the tarmac at the southern end of the Burren Way by using the village of Ballyvaughan as a centre from which to complete the ancient green road that bisects the very best the northern Burren has to offer.
You should begin at the entrance to Ballinalacken Castle (see panel) and follow a minor road north for three kilometres until a gateway at Ballynahown marks the beginning of the green road.
Initially the going is mucky in places, but the magnificent view across the Burren landscape to Fanore Beach and the Aran Islands more than compensates.
On your right is vertically unassuming Slieve Elva, which you will doubtless be surprised to learn is the highest point in the Burren. Beneath this apparently incongruous hill lies a complex honeycomb of caves, streams and waterfalls. This subterranean world of wonder is accessed from several swallow holes lying close by the green road, and with 12km of explored passageways it is now accepted as Ireland's most extensive cave system.
Stay firmly above ground, however, and soon you will reach the highest point of the plateau, where stone walls demarcate ancient field systems.
Now descend into the historic Caher Valley and digress briefly to visit the tiny ruins of Formoyle Chapel, on the left. This place of worship from penal times remained in use until near the end of the 19th century. Emerge on a minor road where the wall provides a suitably contemplative resting place to enjoy lunch beside the noisy Caher River, the only Burren waterway to remain above ground throughout its entire length.
Suitably refuelled, you will be prepared as the route labours uphill on the other side of the Caher Valley. A high point is reached beside the impressive stone fort of Caheranardurrish, which is reputed to have accommodated both a church and a drinking den.
Having diverted briefly to explore these ancient stones, you then descend easily into the Feenagh Valley and follow a scenic byway south and then west to join with the main Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughan road. Don't take this option, however. Instead go immediately left on a local road past cylindrical Newtown Castle, which was originally built in the 16th century as an O'Brien stronghold and now forms part of the thriving Burren College of Art.
A short distance farther, take the road to the right. Soon after, climb a signposted stile into a field that leads to a hazel forest, conveniently waymarked with plastic strips and arrows on the limestone pavement.
Emerging from the trees, the trail crosses some more fields before conceding to a gravel path beside a sports centre. This leads you back to the coastline in the centre of Ballyvaughan, where anything from a coffee to a high-class meal is on offer to celebrate a great day's outing.
North Burren, Co Clare
Starting pointGet a friend or a taxi to drop you from Ballyvaughan to the entrance for Ballinalacken Castle. Do this by following the magnificent coast road south by Black Head and Fanore. When the road swings inland, Ballinalacken is on the left, at the junction for Doolin.
SuitabilityThis is an ideal family walk. Although long, it is waymarked throughout and presents little in the way of objective dangers or navigational problems. For very young children it may be best to complete the walk over two days.
TimeAllow about five hours to complete the route.
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 51. Those wishing to read the landscape in detail along the route should invest in Tim Robinson's wonderfully thorough two-inch Map of the Uplands of Northwest Clare.