Helen McAlinden is one of the few Irish designers using tweeds, says Deirdre McQuillan.
Let us now praise Helen McAlinden, one of the few Irish designers using Irish tweed in quiet but appealing ways. For her new winter collection she also takes inspiration from native knitwear traditions, with oversized cable-knit coats and dresses worn with leggings or slung casually over winter boots.
Though the handknits come from Uruguay, the beautiful fabrics, such as windowpane checks, brown herringbone tweeds and heritage plaids, are woven by Magee of Donegal and Foxford, in Mayo. Their landscape colours and rich textures are set off by plain-weave wools and velvets.
Such contrasts run right through her new collection. "I always start with the fabric, but that's me: I always have to get a handle on the fabric first," she says. Her knits are the chunkiest statement pieces I've seen in ages. They are huge and shapely yet lightweight, in shades such as beige, grey and what's called a "melange" purple. In contrast, fine merino twinsets with Prince of Wales high-waisted skirts are more conventionally ladylike, worn with white shirts.
Sheepskins, aviator-style suedes and biker jackets cross the boundaries of both country- and citywear, while little camel swing jackets are right in tune with current trends. In all, it's a sophisticated collection. Check out the elegant empire-line dresses in French navy or winter white, perfect for day or, draped with pearls, for evening wear.
Her Dublin shop in Castle Market, called No 6, with a mix of clothes, interiors and accessories, celebrates its first year of trading this month. Among interesting additions this season are the French Sole ballet flats in leopardprint, lime green or "traffic black", which she says are flying out of the shop, priced at €110 each. Also notable are a number of well-crafted calfskin bags from Conor Holden in Dingle, Co Kerry. At the end of the month McAlinden will be launching a range of Irish tweed bags made from tough upholstery fabric in heritage plaid or black-grey-and-white windowpane check. Weekend totes will cost €290 and shoppers €l95. Helen McAlinden's second No 6 shop is in Leslie Plaza, Lisburn Road, Belfast. Her collection can also be found in House of Fraser, Dundrum.