Mâcon is the most exciting part of Burgundy, alive with emerging young producers, writes JOHN WILSON
THE WORDS Burgundy and value are not often found together in the same sentence. You will need to dig deep in your pocket to pay for the most sought-after names such as Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault. But there are three parts of Burgundy that the intelligent buyer will look to find great wines at very reasonable prices. First there are the vineyards of Chablis to the north; and there are basic Bourgognes Blancs from the finest producers. We shall return to both in the future, but this week we look at the third, and to me the most interesting option, the Mâconnais.
A few years ago, I remember arriving in Dublin's L'Ecrivain restaurant after lunch on a Friday afternoon. It was mid-summer, warm and sunny, and a great many people had started the weekend early. Looking around the room, I reckon some 80 per cent of customers were drinking Mâcon-Lugny Les Genevrières from Louis Latour. This wine, and its sister Mâcon-Lugny Les Charmes, have been the standard tipple of middle-class Ireland for the past decade or more.
There is nothing wrong with Mâcon-Lugny; virtually all of it is made in the local co-operative, who are responsible for more than 50 per cent of all Mâcon wines. Most of it is very sound, if undistinguished, wine. In recent years, it has been heavily promoted at around €10 a bottle, and sometimes down to €8.99.
Lugny is one of 35 wine-producing villages in the Mâcon region. Some are starting to produce superb wines, often at very reasonable prices. In the past, most growers were content to sell to the local co-operatives, who are still responsible for 80 per cent of all production. They in turn were quite happy to churn out decent, slightly watery wines with light apple fruits. But over the past decade, it is the other 20 per cent that have been making all of the news.
Mâcon is the southernmost part of Burgundy, and the warmest too. The wines tend to be richer, and more full-bodied. As with the rest of the region, virtually all wines are made entirely from the Chardonnay grape, although few mention it on the label.
The most expensive village of the Mâconnais is Pouilly-Fuissé, followed by Saint Véran, Viré-Clessé and other towns with Pouilly attached. These have the best soils, and the highest prices, too.
There are two schools of winemaking. The first group, led by Jean Thévenet, harvest their grapes very late. The resulting wines are full and rich, with decadent flavours of honey, orange peel and nuts. Some have a little residual sugar on the finish. The other group looks to the Côte d'Or for inspiration, vinifying tiny plots of vines separately. They harvest earlier too, and the wines are lighter, drier and often with a strong mineral element.
I recently spent a day tasting the wines of Mâcon. For me, it is the most exciting part of Burgundy, alive with emerging young producers, making thrilling wines. Those below are only an example. Some may seem relatively expensive. I would argue that they are cheap given the quality. But do not be afraid to seek out others in your local wine shop or off-licence; there are plenty in the €10-€15 price bracket.
Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon
Dominique Lafon, often known as the "Master of Meursault", makes some of the finest white wines of Burgundy, and therefore the planet. Sadly, prices reflect this. However, in the early 1990s he expanded southwards, buying 14 hectares of vines in six different villages of Mâcon.
Lafon switched to first organic and now biodynamic methods. The Mâcon, he says "has the same soil [clay over limestone] as Meursault, but the climate is a little warmer".
Lafon believes the grapes are best harvested earlier. His wines are lighter, crisper and more structured. The wines of the Mâconnais, he says, "are less intellectual and mature earlier than Meursault. Keep a bottle near to your kitchen; if you also have some cheese and some saucission, open it with a friend. These are wines to open when you are happy."
Mâcon-Chardonnay 2006 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon 13% (Around €30 a bottle)
A rich nose of orange peel and flowers leads on to a delicious palate of crisp apple fruits, a touch of honey and backed up by plenty of minerals. The finish is long and dry. Great food wine, with fish or seafood.
From:The following outlets have limited stocks of Lafon wines: Redmond's, Ranelagh; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer Street; Donnybrook Fair, Donnybrook.
Olivier Merlin
Olivier and Corinne Merlin set up this estate in 1987, and in a short space of time, have established themselves as one of the leading producers in the region. They make superb Saint Véran, Pouilly-Fuissé (and some delicious Moulin-à-Vent too). The wines are impeccably made, concentrated but balanced, always showing a true sense of terroir.
Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes 2005 13% (€20) I tasted a line-up of three vintages of this wine last week, going back seven years. The current 2005 vintage has lovely, easy plump red apple fruits, hazelnuts and light minerals. Medium-bodied and generous, with all components in harmony. A delicious glass of wine. I would be strongly tempted to pair it with a roast chicken.
From:Vanilla Grape, Kenmare; The Wicklow Arms, Delgany; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; 64 Wine, Glasthule.
Bret Brothers
Jean-Guillaume and Jean-Philippe Bret (still in their early 30s) have taken the Mâconnais by storm in recent years, with a string of brilliant wines from a bewildering number of vineyards. All are very different, and usually excellent.
Mâcon-Vinzelles 2005 Domaine de la Soufrandière, Le Clos de Grand-Père 13.5% (€20.30) Perfectly weighted green fruits, balanced by a mineral note, and a superb, long finish. The oak is barely perceptible; this is a tantalising, fresh but rounded wine. A great all-rounder, a wine to partner most fish, chicken and even pork dishes.
From:Wines Direct 1890-579579 www.winesdirect.ie. Berry Brothers & Rudd of Harry Street in Dublin also have a range of Bret Brothers wines available.
Nicolas Maillet
Mâcon-Verzé 2006 Domaine Nicolas Maillet 14% (€15.40) Maillet is a follower of the late-harvest style, and this is a perfect introduction to the style, at a great price; plump, rich, lightly honeyed fruits cut through nicely by some tangerine zest. Probably not a wine to drink alone, but a perfect foil for chicken and pork dishes.
From:Wines Direct 1890-579579 www.winesdirect.ie
Two around €10
De Wetshof Chardonnay sur Lie, Robertson, South Africa 14% (€10.99-11.99) For many years, this has been one of the best value white wines on the Irish market; zesty green fruits, crisp, dry and dangerously gluggable - you would never guess the 14 per cent alcohol! Great on its own or with seafood and fish. From: Beechers, Youghal; Gibney's, Malahide; Uncorked, Rathfarnham; The Hole in the Wall, Blackhorse Avenue, D7; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Next Door; Molloy's Liquor Stores, Dublin.
Terre Mégère Merlot 2005, Vin de pays d'Oc 13.5% (€10.15) A stalwart performer at the €10 mark, the Terre Mégère Merlot has lovely chunky ripe plummy fruit, a whiff of the farmyards, and a good dry finish. Supple, rounded and easy-drinking, this is a good all-purpose red that would go nicely with most meats and cheese too. From: Wines Direct 1890-579579 www.winesdirect.ie