Cruising the coast road with not a sinner in sight

GREAT ROADS Sheep's Head peninsula is awash with sea views, writes Bob Montgomery

GREAT ROADSSheep's Head peninsula is awash with sea views, writes Bob Montgomery

THE TOWN of Durrus at the head of Dunmanus Bay provides access to two peninsulas; the Mizen peninsula and the Sheep's Head peninsula. Although there's an interesting coast road along the Mizen peninsula through Schull, Toormore and Gooleen to Crookhaven, head out along the Sheep's Head peninsula along the northern shore of Dunmanus Bay.

From Durrus we take the road out past the attractive St James' Church towards Ahakista. It's a fine road from the start, hugging the coastline and providing wonderful views out towards Three Castle Head on the Mizen peninsula. Unlike a lot of roads exposed to the sea, it's surface is good throughout the entire length of the journey.

Pause at the memorial to the victims of the Air India disaster of 1985 just outside the village of Ahakista. It's a simple garden dominated by the plaques recording the names of the 329 people on board, including 136 children, who perished when a terrorist bomb exploded just as the Boeing 747 entered Irish air space.

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Ahakista is an attractive village approached through flower-lined roads with over-hanging trees. Once through the village, we continue along the shoreline to Kilcrohane. From here we turn northwards, skirting Ardahill and climbing the eastern slopes of Seefin (345m). Along this road, before you crest the highest point and start to descend towards Bantry Bay, there are amazing views over Dunmanus Bay towards the coastline of Mizen. On the day I travelled this road, the weather was magnificent and the views a reminder of how glorious the scenery in this part of Ireland can be.

As you start to descend towards Bantry Bay, Bear Island comes into view on the left with the wonderful Slieve Miskish and Caha Mountains on the Beara peninsula. Bantry Bay is the finest natural deep harbour on this island and has provided a welcome sheltering refuge for sailors down the centuries.

The town of Bantry, at the end of the journey, is today a busy market town and fishing port. Twice in its history, Bantry Bay was entered by French Fleets - in 1689 in an effort to support James II against William of Orange and again in 1796 to aid the rebellion of Wolfe Tone. On that occasion a great storm dispersed the fleet and only a handful of the French ships managed to enter the bay. This latter expedition is recalled in The French Armada Exhibition Centre at Bantry House.

This is an easy drive affording plenty of spectacular scenery over good roads, little populated by traffic. Rare indeed!